Geococcyx 2020







Thursday 20-2-2020.  New helmet arrived, but it is a medium size.  Tight to wear, but did not give me a headache after 30 minutes of wearing.

Saturday 22-2-2020.  Charged batteries, and started car.  It ran fine for 30 seconds, then cut out.  It did not want to run properly, and sounded like starving for fuel.  I took off the fuel filter, and replaced it with a new one, but there was no change.  It sawed off the tube of the old fuel filter, and used it to put into the line – no filter at all – but there was no change.  So I replaced the new filter into the line.  It starts, but does not want to accept any throttle.

Tuesday 254-2-2020.  Motorcycle Mad advised to drain old fuel, replace with new fuel, and try again.  I made a drain hose, and connected it, ran fuel pump till tank empty.  Put 1 litre of new fuel in.  It started perfectly when cold, but as soon as it started to warm up would not accept throttle, stumbled, ran rough, and stalled again.

Tuesday 3-3-2020.  Picked up Geo from Motorcycle Mad.  They said that it was running perfectly yesterday.  My spare starter solenoid had been fitted, and the TPS adjusted.  I paid the bill of $165.00 and when they decided to help put the trailer on the back of the car, they started Geo, and it was exactly as it was when I took it to them.  They played around with throttle settings, unplugged individual fuel injector wires, plugged in the dashboard, unplugged the dashboard, and there was no change.  I noticed that they were using the ignition switch brutally, and it started to malfunction.  Then the battery started to run down.  They then said that the fuel cap was on too tightly, and the return line was aerating the fuel in the tank, and could be causing it to not run properly.  Then the speedo suddenly started to register, and they said that was caused by a loose earth somewhere.

In disgust I simply loaded it up and drove home.

Wednesday 4-3-2020.  Finished making fuel fitting, bought new 8 ID fuel line, and fitted it to inside of tank.  Reassembled tank and return line to outside, and put fuel into tank.  Started engine, and it ran just OK till it started to get warm, then it did not want to accept throttle. When it stalled it would not start again.  Found that the O2 sensor wire was close to the exhaust, so took it apart at the joiner, where there was a piece of SS spring wire jammed into it.  Removed it, and re-routed the cable.  Tested the engine, and it was unchanged.  Took the plug off the water temperature sensor, and it would not fire up.  Ordered a replacement water temperature sensor from Shepparton, with the cost of  $30 + postage.

Tuesday 10-3-2020.  Replacement water temperature sensor arrived.

Saturday 14-3-2020.  Finally built up enough courage to try out the replacement water temperature sensor.  Started car, and it ran perfectly while warming up, and continued to run perfectly when warm.  It picked up without stumbling on the opening if the throttle, and revved out well.  Turned it off, and after 5 minutes tried again.  It started first go, and ran perfectly.  Built an aluminium bracket to sit on the water manifold and hold the temperature sender above it.

Sunday 5-4-2020.  Charged battery, but it needed only 10 minutes.  Started it perfectly, revved cleanly, warmed up evenly, ran it for 3 minutes or so.

Sunday 3-5-2020.  Started engine, and it ran perfectly.  Charged battery.

Wednesday 29-7-2020.  Charged jump battery and car battery.  Started first kick.

Sunday 2-8-2020.  HSCCQ Khanacross / Motorkhana.  Willowbank Raceway.  Fine, warm.  10 psi fronts, 18 psi rears, 80 psi in reservoir. Did 4 runs at Cloverleaf, one run at Khanacross, and one run at Hopscotch.  Engine running really well, but still a bit ON/OFF in the throttle.  Cloverleaf test.

Run 1               21.97

Run 2               22.02

Run 3               21.56               Fastest Outright

Run 4               21.93


Khanacross                  80.26               4th fastest.


Hopscotch Test.

Run 1.              29.73

Run 2.              28.28               Fastest Outright



Tuesday 4-8-2020. Reinstalled original starter solenoid, sprayed all electricals to clean off coolant.  Painted blue triangle.  Zip tied hose clamps where they came apart.

Saturday 8-8-2020.  Built pull line warm up throttle.

Monday 10-8-2020.  Installed new coolant sender in manifold.

Wednesday 12-8-2020.  Got coolant drain pipe back from Bushell Engineering, and fitted it with M6 bolt and neoprene washer.  Added coolant and ran car without any leaks.


On Sunday 16-8-2020 I tried to replace the existing seat with the one out of Casper, but after lots of problems, reverted to the existing seat.

Thursday 17-9-2020.  Drove car at Willowbank, engine revs right out, no overheating, no fluid leaks.

Sunday 4-10-2020.  Interclub Khanacross, Willowbank.  In first run at first test the bolts stripped the threads of the right rear VW Golf ball joint, and the suspension collapsed.

Monday 26-10-2000.  New wheel bearings into trailer.

Sunday 15-11-2020.  QMC Willowbank.  Fine, very hot.  At start of third test, there was suddenly no power to the ignition.  I checked the battery terminals, main fuse, wires to main switch, and still nothing.  Connected up jumper battery, and still nothing.  Took insulation tape off main switch, and checked terminals, no change.  Jiggled wires at starter solenoid, and suddenly everything worked.  The TPS seems to be set incorrectly, because there is no progressive power – just an on-off switch with the power.  Very difficult to drive.  Reversing box was very slow to change back into forward.  RH Turning brake not working properly, and left hand one only intermittently.

I decided that the car needs a complete rebuild back to the bare chassis, so on Monday 23-11-2020, and started taking car apart.  Photographed details for re-assembly.

Tuesday 8-12-2020.  Cut the four intake pipes off, stole the air filters off Kwakakart, and screwed them onto the intakes of Geo.  Now I have room to reposition the fuel pump and filter, and have saved 0.7 kg of weight in the intakes.

Friday 11-12-2020.  Modified fuel pump mount, painted it, and fitted it.

Tuesday 15-12-2020.  Took little used tools out of toolbox, and weight went from 26 kg to 15 kg.  Painted box.

Sunday 27-12-2020.  Removed R/V mirror, and made wooden tapped blocks to experiment with curving the mirror.  It does so quite well, so drew modified mirror to be larger and adjustable in its curvature.  Designed new coolant pressure equalising pipe.

Monday 28-12-2020.  Shifted bare chassis to driveway, and water blasted it.  Back onto trestles, and rolled it over to weld skid blocks on.  Touched up welds and grinding.  Welded on two earth blocks.IMG_2009

Tuesday 29-12-2020.  Picked up paint, wire brushed exhausts and repainted them.  Sprayed number panels & dashboard.  Found some ¼” dia brass rod for coolant equaliser pipe.

Wednesday 30-12-2020.  Cut out 12 thick ralloy mirror mounts.

Thursday 31-12-2020.  Made jig and drilled & tapped holes in R/V mirror mounts.



Geococcyx Velox 2019


The first event for 2019 was the HSCCQ Come and Try Motorkhana / Khanacross at Willowbank on 24th February. The car would not start – battery flat.  Jumper battery also flat.  Brought it home, charged battery, and it started first touch.  Brake master cylinder caps all breaking apart at layers in the threads.  Next day I bought 4 new brake master cylinder caps from Supercheap, and fitted them.  Butchy revealed he had the same problem, so I gave one of my new brake master cylinder caps to him, and bought a replacement for Geo.

Sunday 14-4-2019.  Interclub Motorkhana, Willowbank.  Scrappy run in Star. but 22.49 fastest first run.  24.19 +5 second run.  2nd outright. The engine was surging in first run at Eccentric, (37.15), back to pits, top up with fuel, then it would not start.  Battery flat.  Connected jump start battery at home, and it started first go. On Sunday 19-5-2019 I tried to start car, but battery is flat.  Charged battery and jump start battery, and next day it started first click.

Sunday 16-6-2019.  HSCCQ Khanacross / Motorkhana at Willowbank. Ran slicks on the puddles in the Motorkhana, and did 3 runs at Straight Slalom.  Best time 21.22 (fastest outright).Then battery went flat, and the jumper battery also.  Did one run at Knitting in Terry’s Skyline, recording 44.59, 0.59 slower than Terry, but faster than Noel.

Sunday 14-7-2019.  Installed new labels on dashboard.

Sunday 28-7-2019.  Both batteries flat and do not start car.  Charged them both, and car battery started engine OK.  Sunday 4-8-2019.  Batteries will not start car.  Charged them, and it started on car battery.

Tuesday 6-8-2019.  New battery from Battery World, $110.  Charged it, fitted it, and it started first go.

Sunday 11-8-2019.  Geo started first pop on its own battery.

Wednesday 14-8-2019.  Installed new starter solenoid, and started engine OK.

Sunday 18-8-2019.  HSCCQ Khanacross / Motorkhana at Willowbank. The engine overheated after the second run in the motorkhana, and the fan would not work.  In the second run at the top khanacross, at full revs in second gear over some giant bumps, the left rear suspension pushrod broke, and the suspension collapsed.  Top Khanacross Run 1.     51.21 seconds (2nd to Stuart Bell)  Open Slalom Run 1.   22.10 (2nd to Brant).


Sunday 22-9-2019.  QMC at Willowbank Raceway.  Engine not running well, seemed to be starving of fuel sometimes.  I took the fuel pump off, and blew through it backwards, and it seemed to improve for 1 test.

  1.                   22.21               second to Brant.
  2. Pine Tree. 60
  3. 41.34               trouble with gears.
  4. 49.41               trouble with gears.
  5. Gate Slalom mirror. 53               5th

Monday 7-10-2019.  Took fuel pump and its mounting tray off, shifted them to beside the gearbox, rewired it, and re-routed the fuel lines.

Friday 11-10-2019.  Pick up radiator from Valley Radiator Works, there was a groove in the outlet pipe that was causing the leak.  $50.  Fitted it, and filled with coolant.  Fitted new fuel filter.

Friday 18-10-2019.  Ordered replacement TPS from South Australia.

Monday 21-10-2019.  Ordered a brand new TPS from DH

Saturday 26-10-2019.  Tested spare (original) TPS with multimeter, and it “seems” to be OK.  Sunday 27-10-2019.  HSCCQ Interclub Khanacross.  Willowbank Raceway.  Problems with intermittent cutting out, and starter seemed to occasionally jamb on

Monday 28-10-2019.  TPS arrived from South Australia.  Typical !!!!!

Tuesday 29-10-2019.  Installed new TPS, and started car.  All seemed OK till the engine warmed up, then it stalled when on the over-run.  Then it would not run at a steady throttle.  I adjusted the TPS throughout its whole range, and it kept doing the same thing.

Thursday 31-10-2019.  Tyres on trailer wheels swapped at Jax, Michelton.  $50.  Fitted them onto trailer.

Friday 1-11-2019.  Moved cutoff master switch to be accessible from outside of vehicle.  Started OK.

Saturday 2-11-2019.  Removed padding from steering rack, and built an aluminium shield for it.  Painted and fitted it.

Wednesday 6-11-2019.  To Team Moto, Alderley.  Asked them about the Diagnosis plug.  They are only on bikes after 2003, and before that the diagnosis was done through the dashboard.  They did not seem to be helpful, so I chased alternative motorcycle mechanics.

Tuesday 12-11-2019.  Bought new multimeter, and tested TPS that is fitted to car.  Problems with calculating operating range, so fitted it in central position.  Wednesday 13-11-2019.  Started engine, but it cut out straight away.  Repositioned TPS, and it started well, and warmed up normally.

Friday 15-11-2019.  TPS from DH Gate, USA arrived in mail.  It does not look brand new.

Sunday 17-11-2019.  HSCCQ Motorkhaha / Khanacross, Willowbank.  Fine, very hot.  Started car on jumper battery, and warmed it up.  It then simply cut out.  Noel came to investigate, and reset TPS, but it still cutout when warm.  Then the starter motor jammed, and was working as soon as the master switch was turned on.  Brought it home, and took all the panels off.  Took off new starter solenoid, and put the original one back on.  Found that the live terminal was oversize, and was possibly shorting out on the mounting plate.  Insulated it with tape, and re-installed it.  All now works perfectly.  However the motor cuts out when warm.  Found the coolant temperature sensor, and tested engine with the temp sensor unplugged.  Engine ran fine, so connected the sensor, and it stalled.  Repeated the procedure and got the same results.  Removed the water temperature sender, and cleaned it.  Tested it again connected and it stalled, but stalled with the sensor unplugged.  My diagnosis of a bad sensor is destroyed.  Battery went flat, so charged it.


Monday 18-11-2019.  Took Geo to Motorcycle Mad at Brendale.  They diagnosed a crack in the exhaust system, which is causing the O2 sensor to shut down the ECU.

Tuesday 19-11-2019.  Electronic dashboard arrived.

Wednesday 20-11-2019.  Ordered exhaust mandrels and expanders from Mac’s Mufflers, Enoggera.  Draw exhaust headers and jig.  Started making exhaust headers jig.

Thursday 21-11-19.  Picked up 4mandrel bends 38 OD x 180 degrees, and 2 x 1.5 metres of 38 OD pipe with expanded ends from Mac’s Mufflers, Enoggera. $125.  Worked on drawings of headers.

Friday 22-11-2019.  To Alltype to pick up header connectors.  Work on headers drawing and jig.  Then I started manufacturing the new headers, and after lots of problems final finished them on 15th of December.IMG_1204

I got a larger replacement radiator from a Ninja 650, and built new brackets for it, and it was complete on 17th December.IMG_1290

Thursday 19-12-2019.  Took car back to Brendale, and noticed that the LR suspension had been broken again.  Engine started perfectly, and ran quietly and smoothly. Injectors balanced, coolant “O” rings replaced, tune up etc.  $220.



Sunday 11-2-2018.  HSCCQ Come & try motorkhana / khanacross.  Willowbank Raceway.  Hot, dry.  Seems to be starving for fuel, runs on full throttle for only 1 second, then cuts out.  Throttle blips perfectly.  Fuel pump is working, fuel filter looks like it is not clogged.

Friday 16-2-2018.  Replacement Throttle Position Sensor arrives.

Sunday 25-2-2018.  Started motor, warmed it up, and then revved it right out.  No problems with fuel starvation at all.  Did not cut out.  Increased revs slowly till nearly red line, and no problem.  Do not know what is wrong.

Sunday 4-3-2018.  HSCCQ Khanacross, Willowbank Raceway. In both runs the engine ran normally under full load until nearly redline in first, but then I went to second under full throttle it seemed to starve.  Did it throughout both runs.  I could not take the TPS off because the TORX bolts have a central spigot.  So I brought it home, and found that the Chain Link anchorage on lower right rear had broken off.  I made a new one, and welded it on. I got the TPS Bolts off with vice grips, they are M5 x 15 long, with captive spring and flat washers.  Made two M5 hex head bolts to replace them, but will get some M5 SHC Screws to replace them properly.  The HT Leads were touching the engine block which was hot, so I made a ralloy block with slots in it, and an aluminium cover plate to hold them in place.

Monday 5-3-2018. Removed bolts from TPS, and replaced them with SHCS. Made aluminium cover plate for clutch master cylinder reservoir, and fitted it.

Wednesday 7-3-2018.  Took aluminium clutch pedal off, and trimmed top of it to fit my shoe, painted it, and refitted it to pedal frame.

Thursday 8-3-2018.  Went to Team  Moto at Alderley.  Marty Kransch is no longer there, he is running his own business outside Ipswich.  The Service Manager is now Josh Webster, who I spoke to.  He advised that the TPS controls just where the ECU thinks the throttle position is, and that the adjustment can alter the characteristics wildly.  He advised to change the position to midway in the adjustment, and trial it.  Then keep doing fine adjustments up and down till the wanted rev range is available.

Saturday 7-4-2018.  Tested car at Materials Handling.  Started on Jump starter, with TPS at centre of range.  Did about 6 passes, but then it would not start on the battery.  It did on the jump start battery, but then there was a small whiff of smoke from the isolator switch, so I turned it off.  At home I replaced the metallic chain securing the isolator switch key with sash cord; and bent the wires terminals on the rear of the terminal strip at the firewall away from anything metallic.  It now starts on the battery OK.  Tested it out an hour later and it started perfectly OK.

Sunday 15-4-2018.  Interclub Motorkhana at Willowbank.  In first run it went to about 5000 rpm and kept cutting out.  Did one run at first test (Spiro Slalom), and back to pits.  Swapped over to Tasmanian ECU, and same result.  Adjusted TPS to other end of range, and same result.  Difficult to start on battery, needed jump start.  Butchy looked at fuel return line with engine idling, and fuel was returning to tank, but when I revved it up, the flow stopped and the engine starved for fuel.  Brought it home, took fuel tank off, fuel pump out.

Monday 16-4-2018.  Front lower A Arms were fouling on the inside of the front wheels, so I took them off, cut out the existing suspension tubes, and welded new tubes to be close together at the ball joint. Painted both, and assembled left hand one.  Next day I fitted RH front lower A Arm, and tested full lock on rack both ways.  Wheels clear just.

Wednesday 18-4-2018.  Noel advised that my piddly little fuel filter may be the problem so I bought a Ryco Z549 EFI fuel filter and fitted it.  Engine now runs right up to redline and stays there with fuel still going back into tank.  The fitting on the return line at the tank was cracked and leaking, so I cut it off, and drilled the hole out to 8 mm diameter.  I drilled a 3.5 mm hole down through an 8mm bolt, then filed the thread off the end of the bolt to be 6mm diameter, fitted it through the tank, and bolted it up.  It still leaks, so needs some neoprene washers.  Ordered them from England.

Friday 20-4-2018.  Did front wheel alignment, and found steering bracket on RF upright was coming apart.  Took it off, ground it smooth, and re-welded it. Did corner weights to be 67 kg on each front wheel.

Wednesday 2-5-2018.  Installed neoprene washers, now the tank does not leak.  Started car using jump starter.

Monday 14-5-2018. Took R/V mirror off Casper, and fitted it to Geo.

Sunday 20-5-2018.  HSCCQ Khanacross at Willowbank.  Started car (with difficulty) on jump start battery, but it would not then start on its own battery – nor with the jump start battery.  Wire going from firewall power board to starter solenoid very hot.  At home I took off the alternator stator cover, checked it over – there was a tiny amount of swarf inside – and put it back together.  Car still will not start on battery; very sluggish.  Charged battery again, and also charged jumper battery.

Monday 21-5-2018.  Bought bigger cables from Bursons, with 8 mm lugs.  Made new cable from battery to isolator in parallel with original, with new terminals on isolator.  Made new cable and  installed it in parallel with ones from isolator to power point at firewall.  Hit starter, and it fired on first turn.  HURRAH !!!

Sunday 27-5-2018.  Started car, on first turn.

Sunday 17-6-2018.  QMC at Willowbank.  New Avons front / rear at 9 & 18 psi. Started perfectly all day, but the foot brake line to the LR calliper pulled out three times, so I trailered the car and brought it home after the last run.

Saturday 23-6-2018.  Wrapped Avon tyres in black poly.

Sunday 24-6-2018.  Started first pop.

Monday 25-6-2018.  Made new mounting plate for rear cigarette lighter socket, fitted it, and wired it up to the fuel pump so the dash camera only records when engine is running.  Glued mounting plate to dash camera.

Friday 29-6-2018.  Replaced all 6 fittings on brake callipers with olive type fittings.  Bled all brakes.

Sunday 1-7-2018.  Cut black tyre wrap into two rolls with hackenseiger.

Sunday 8-7-2018.  At the HSCCQ Khanacross at Willowbank Raceway it went perfectly on the first run, but then overheated during the convoy run of the second test.  An air valve in the return line fractured, and sprayed coolant all over the motor.  The radiator was not hot, so it is probably clogged up again.  At home I took it all apart, and cleaned out the thermostat and housing, putting it back together with gasket goo.  New bolt in bleeder.

Tuesday 10-7-2018.  Drained all coolant, removed and flushed out radiator, replaced everything.  Added 2.4 litres of coolant, bleeding it all the time, cleaned alloy corrosion off, re-installed hose etc.

Sunday 12-8-2018.  HSCCQ Khanacross, Willowbank.  Test 1, Run 2.  Throttle felt funny in second last chicane, felt like it was sticking wide open.  At the end in the finish garage the throttle would not work.  The throttle cables had come apart.  Came home and built a new one, this time with nylok nut so it will not come apart again.  Tested long M17 headed wheel bolts in all wheels, and they seem to be OK.  Painted them claret.


Thursday 16-8-2018.  Made rubber seals for inside the lids of the master cylinders, and fitted them.

Sunday 9-9-2018.  QMS 3 at Willowbank.  Throttle was a bit “sticky” at times till I took the return spring off beside the seat, and repositioned the anchor point lower by using zipties.  Heavy wear on outside of left rear tyre from constant right hand turns, so possibly need more camber on the wheels.  Brakes still not perfect, and fluid still coming from reservoirs.

Geococcyx in typical pose

Tuesday 11-9-2018.  Made steel wire connector for throttle return spring.  Made alloy return stop on throttle pedal, attached to brake frame.

Sunday 16-9-2018.  Took plastic relief valves out of master cylinder caps.

Saturday 29-9-2018.  Tried new master cylinder cap, but the thread was wrong, and wants to cross thread.  Redesigned whole cap.  Designed new top A Arms end plates to get 3 degrees of camber.

Sunday 30-9-2018.  Rebuilt both rear upper A Arms with 12 mm less height, painted and installed them.

Monday 1-10-2018.  Made new front upper A Arms, painted and installed them.

Thursday 4-10-2018.  Test fitted new master cylinder cap, and it fits perfectly.

Monday 22-10-2018.  Lowered car to do wheel alignment.  Found RF wheel has 7 degrees camber, and not enough thread on rod end to adjust it.  Took A Arm off, cut 10 mm out of mounting plates, and  re-welded it together.

Sunday 28-10-2018.  Interclub Khanacross.  In first run of second test, I hit a big hole with the left front wheel, and by the time I got to the finish garage there were big gouge marks in the inside of the ATS rim.  Swapped to trailer rim, and loaded it onto trailer.  At home I took it apart and found that the 20 mm axle had snapped at the root of where it goes into the 10 thick flange, and the disc had chewed into the ball joint.

Monday 29-10-2018.  Bought new Ball Joint at Bursons for $40.

Wednesday 14-11-2018.  Made neoprene gaskets for 3D printed master cylinder caps, and fitted them.

Monday 19-11-2018.  Picked up machined parts from Alltype.  Took right hand side upright off and rebuilt it with bigger bearings etc.  Re-installed it on the car.  Everything seems OK.

Tuesday 20-11-2018.  Took left hand side upright off and rebuilt it with bigger bearings etc.



Gearbox damage to Xmas 2017.

Sunday 7-8-2016. QMC4. Willowbank Raceway. Fine, warm, light winds. Test 1 was Eccentric, and when completing the second loop, the right angle gearbox destroyed itself. Took it home and removed gearbox. Could not remove input shaft, so photographed gears in place.

Got out designs of larger right angle drive gearbox to see if larger gears can be fitted. TEA Transmissions cannot supply larger gears because they all have 27 mm dia bores, not 20.

Tuesday 9-8-2016. Contacted Elite Racing Transmissions in England regarding their MX-200 reversing differential, and advised it has a 2 to 4 weeks manufacturing time. Checked the dimensions of the unit and it will fit in OK.

So on Sunday 14-8-2016 all the existing VW Golf gearbox and related stuff was removed from the car, and new mounting plated made for differential. It was ordered from England. Confirmation of the order arrived on Tuesday 16th August, but there were problems between banks transferring the money. Approval and transfer finally accomplished on Monday 29th. Meanwhile I made a complete mock up differential from wood so I could organise ancillaries around it. Repositioned fuel pump, catch tank, fuel tank, air reservoir etc. I found a problem with the throttle cable sticking, and modified mounts to fix it.

Thursday 1-9-2016. Cut VW Golf hollow driveshafts to suit, and cut 30 dia shaft to fit into them. Welded up new halfshafts.  On Thursday 11th October, Kelly from Elite emailed to say that the CWP was being finished, and the unit would be dispatched this week. Nine days later, on 20-10-2016 Kelly from Elite emailed to say there was a problem with the CWP, and the diff would be finished tomorrow. Advised on 7-11-2016 that it was finally being dispatched. I then tracked it from England through Germany to Sydney where it arrived on Thursday 17th. On Wednesday 23rd it is still in Sydney, and found out it is awaiting a further $608.89 in customs duty before it will be shifted into the mailing system.  It finally arrived on Thursday 24th. When I tested it I found it was stuck in reverse, and the ratio was 6:1 for reverse. I was able with lots of trouble to get it into forward gear, and found the ratio was 4:1 like I asked for.





Friday 25th I made the final mounts for the diff and installed it in position. I added oil to the unit after finally finding out where the oil level indicator was, and oil leaked out of the flange mounting holes. Frantic emails back and forth, to find out that when the CV joints are bolted onto the flanges, they will seal over the holes.

2017, and I tried to run the motor, but had to stop because of a massive fuel leak. Fixed it and then started the motor with the diff in forward and first gear, and the rear wheels rotated forward. Put it into reverse, and the rear wheels went backward. Success. Next day I lowered it onto its wheels, and did the corner weights. Made left/right threaded pushrods and installed them. Bought two new bathroom scales, and redid corner weights. Fronts set at 66kg left, 64 kg right; with rears 122 left and 101 right. Total weight 333 kg.

Private testing at Willowbank on Wednesday 18th January, and found it revs really well, and accelerated very strongly in the rev range. Turning brakes do not work well at low speed, but work at higher speeds. The clutch is dragging, and will not release properly.

On Sunday 29th there was evidence of oil leaking out of the oil level plug in sump, so took it off, cleaned up the hole, and filled it with alloy epoxy. Next day I refitted it, filled it with oil, and there are no leaks. A new battery was bought and fitted on 9th March.

On Sunday 12th March I took it to the HSCCQ Come and Try Motorkhana at Willowbank. The rear ride height was too low, so I wound it up as far as possible. Clutch is still dragging, and throttle is still sticky. Difficult to drive.   But the power off the line is impressive, wheel spinning all the way to the first pole of the test. Found oil leaking from alternator cover, so retired the car.

Next day I solved the throttle cable sticking by straightening out the bend in the cable sheath, and rerouting the cable over the front suspension units to a modified mounting on the pedal. Took the alternator cover off, cleaned out the old silicon sealant, and wire brushed the area. Filled crack with alloy epoxy. Refilled with oil, and no leaks.

The first two rounds of the Queensland Motorkhana Championships were at Gladstone on 25th and 26th March, and found that bolts on the rear suspension pushrods had fallen out during the journey. Fitted new ones, and found that the clutch would work only once after being bled, and then dragged badly, and the throttle went back to sticking after the first test. Very difficult to drive, but VERY fast when it was going. Next day as I was changing the wheels before scrutineering I found the left front wheel seemed loose. After investigation, I found that the stub axle had cracked completely around a 20 mm diameter circle, and the wheel was only being held on by the brake calliper. Packed it back up, and came home early.

The sticking throttle is caused by the ferrule sliding along the inner sheath and jamming. Epoxy alloyed to hold it in place, and seems to have solved the problem. Steering column bolts have developed some slop, causing some freeplay in the steering. New bolts solved that problem. Made an extension for the gear lever on differential, and fitted it with a repositioned spring. Still needs a strong bang to get it out of reversed and into forward. Cut top corners off clutch pedal to stop it hitting front bulkhead. Started taking front hubs apart to replace stub axles with stronger ones. These have 10 mm thick flanges instead of 5 thick, and are made from 4140 material. Bought a new clutch master cylinder from a Corolla AE71, but the fittings do not fit the existing hoses. Got a specially made hose made by Brakes Direct at Hendra for only $37. Wonderful service by them. Sunday 9th April, and I fitted the new stub axles into the front hubs, and welded them in place. A week later my injured hand was OK and I fitted the heat insulation to the back of the firewall.

On Sunday 21st May I took it to the HSCCQ Khanacross, where the clutch is still dragging. I bled it many times, but it still would not release properly. Terry noticed that the alloy pedal is distorting under load and hitting the front bulkhead, so I brought it home and made a new steel clutch pedal.

On Sunday 28th I did the design of using a double acting air cylinder for the forward / reverse, and ordered the parts. Fitted them on Wednesday 31st, but wired it up incorrectly, and burned one of the wires out. Rewired it with heavier wire. Tested it and it works perfectly on 60 psi.

Sunday 18th June was QMC3 at Willowbank, and the clutch will not drive the car. Do not know what is wrong, so took it home and tested the slave cylinder. All works OK, so on Friday 30th took the clutch plates out to measure their thickness. All is correct, so contacted Noel to get his advice. When he looked at the clutch plates under a strong light, it became obvious that they had been very hot and had blued, baking the oil into the surface. Also it was found I was using car oil and not motorcycle oil, so I degreased all the clutch and fibre plates, and took the glazing off with emery paper. When re-assembled the clutch seems to be working properly, but without the oil filled up.

Sunday 2-7-2017. Bought oil and filter, fitted them, and started it up in neutral. A week later I tested the clutch and it worked OK.

It went to the HSCCQ Khanacross on 9-7-2017, and the clutch worked once, but would not the drive the car. So I measured the stroke of the original FJR clutch cylinder. 14 diameter x 18 stroke = 2,770 cu. Mm. Slave cylinder 33.6 diameter x 3.12 mm stroke = 2,770 cu. Mm. Clutch spring length is 6.78 mm with a minimum of 6.44 tolerance, so it will not go over centre with the stock master cylinder. The Corolla master cylinder is 15.875 diameter with 35 stroke = 6,927 cu. Mm. which is 7.81 mm on the clutch spring; meaning that it can go over centre. S I got my mate to watch what went on in the disassembled clutch while I operated the pedal, and then swapped so I could see. We then realised that the clutch was going overcentre, so I drilled a hole in the pedal, fitted an adjustable stop, and adjusted it to not allow enough travel to go over centre.

Sunday 6-8-2017. QMC 4 at Willowbank. Clutch is very severe, engaging quickly at first lift of the pedal. RH turning brake not working properly, and both master cylinders leaking. Car seems sluggish overall, and brakes seem to be dragging, car stops almost immediately when clutch is depressed. It went into reverse perfectly, but would not then go back into forward. So I extended the lever, and repositioned the cylinder. I put a spring on the brake pedal to try to solve the sluggishness. I made a forward / reverse gear lever for the cockpit, and fitted it on 17-8-2017.

At the HSCCQ Motorkhana on 10-9-2017 the right hand side turning brake was not working, and I found it had split the line right at the fitting on the calliper. I tested it after fixing the hose, and overheated the motor. I took the radiator off, and hosed about 1/3 cup of crap out of it, and now it flows water well. Started it up, and no leaks, but the throttle only works ¼ travel. So I took off the top of the pedal, and modified it to get full throttle.

Saturday 23-9-2017 was the HSCCQ dirt khanacross, and I ran it with the 14” wheels and rally tyres. The rear suspension collapsed from the rough ground, and it ground to a halt only metres from the finish garage.

I made new suspension mounting brackets for the rear, and tightened the mounting bolts on the diff.

Sunday 15-10-2017 was the HSCCQ Khanacross, in pouring rain. The rain got into the electrics, and it would not start properly, even with the jumper battery fitted.

My new Avon slicks arrived on 18-10-2017, and I weighed them on the rims. Fronts on ATS wheels are 9 kg, tyre weighs 4.1 kg. Rears on 7” wheels are 10.8 kg, tyre weighs 4.5 kg. both are 505 diameter.

Sunday 12-11-2017 was the Interclub Khanacross, and when I went to start the car there were sparks from the cigarette lighter socket. So I disconnected the wire from the back of it, and when I went to disconnect it at the isolator switch, the terminal was extremely hot. I found that the terminal from the regulator had been rubbing on the firewall, and worn out the insulation, giving a direct short. I disconnected the battery, and bent the terminal out of the way, and it started perfectly on the normal battery. I ran the first test, and it wheelspun to redline on the way to the first gate, but the brakes were very spongey. I did not run in the second test because all the mountings for the differential failed, and it was sitting at a crazy angle. I took it all apart, and made stronger mountings for the diff. I took the cigarette lighter out of its panel and mounted it in the dashboard. I took the battery off, and mounted it in the cockpit, and mounted the isolator switch on the underside of the dashboard. I wired it all up, but the car would not crank over properly. I was now running all the power through the 50 amp fuse instead of to the dashboard, and it had blown. I bought a 40 amp fuse holder and fuses, and mounted it behind the dash, and it starts perfectly. I made an insulated connector panel for the three wires where the isolator used to be.

A spare ECU arrived from Tasmania (cost $35), and it tested OK, and is now my spare.

On Saturday 9-12-2017 I tested the car at Materials Handling, and the brakes still are not up to scratch. The motor tended to break down at very high revs. It powers out of tight turns extremely well, and is fun to drive on the rain tyres. The front wheel guides on the trailer work well. Next day I took the rocking brake balance bar apart and made it into a simpler non-rocking version.

A couple of days later a new heavier wire was installed parallel to the one running from the isolator to the connector at the starter solenoid, and the extra current makes starting easier.

On Saturday 16-12-2017 I made some ¼ turn WZUS fasteners for the Lexan, and they worked really well. Next day I made 6 more. During the next couple of days all the remaining screws were replaced with WZUS fasteners.

In December 2017 I remade the wheel guides on the trailer to lower them down to the tops of the suspension members. I then removed the old lifting frames from inside the trailer because I have not used them for years. Then I water blasted all the crud off the trailer, and painted it mission brown killrust.

Geococcyx Velox part 4 – crash to QMC4.

Sunday 29-5-2016.  Onto trestles.  Took wheels off, bodywork off, photographed damage. Removed damaged clutch pedal.  Removed damaged throttle / brake pedal.  Removed R.F. suspension bolts at chassis.  Removed tow point.   After taking dimensions of the damaged area, I need to replace the lower front bulkhead crossmember and towing point, the right front bulkhead vertical member and suspension mounts, the lower front horizontal chassis tube in front of the second bulkhead.  The floor needs to be flattened out, and re-welded.  The clutch pedal needs to be straightened out.  The hinges for the mounting of the accelerator / brake pedal need to be straightened, a new mounting for the clutch pedal hinge fabricated, new “Lexan” panels for right hand side made, and the “Lexan” bonnet repaired.  The special artwork is damaged by brake fluid spilled from the vents on the master cylinders, but it has been rinsed off and can be repainted.  I will have to cut horizontally through the front vertical “Lexan” panel, and make a new panel to go inside and behind it. The side joints will need new splice plates.  I will manufacture complete new suspension A arms with slotted plates on inner and outer attachments.  I will make all new front uprights with heavier wall tubing.  Designed new A arm mounts and “Lexan” fix.

Sunday 5-6-2016.  Cut bent and broken members out of chassis, ground smooth.  Cut new 25 x 1.6 SHS members.  Straightened out floor to be fairly straight.  Tried to start it, battery too low in charge.  Charged battery, and tried again.  Would not start.

Thursday 9-6-2016.  Welded parts to individual members on bench.  Wedged extension bottom chassis member into cut off chassis member.  Tack welded parts, then fully welded members into chassis.  Tack welded new Nutsert into top hole.  Installed accelerator / brake pedal.

Friday 10- 6-2016.  Installed clutch pedal.  Made new mountings for front bonnet, and welded them to the existing mounts.  Spray painted all chassis members and welds.

Sunday 26-6-2016. Made new uprights with 3 mm wall SHS.

Tuesday 28-6-2016.  Made suspension arms jig, and painted it.

Sunday 3-7-2016.  Made all new suspension A arms, and painted them.

Tuesday 5-7-2016.  Got stub axles from Alltype, welded one into RF Disc & hub.  Welded brake calliper mount to upright.

Monday 18-7-2016.  To Cottage Plastics to get new front panel.  $20.  Installed it.

Friday 22-7-2016.  Noticed that the right inner CV joint was not connected to the axle.

Thursday 28-7-2016.  Took RH inner CV off, and balls fell out of it, followed by the cage in 5 pieces.  Took axle out and took CV off it.  Replaced it with a used CV joint. Found that central tie rod mounting plate was bending up under load, so redesigned it.

Friday 29-7-2016.  Made new central tie rod mounting bar, and painted it.  Found that mounting for rear suspension units was badly bent, so took it off and welded a stiffener to it.  Repainted it.

Saturday 30-7-2016.  Fitted rear suspension anchor point.  Fitted central rear tie rod mounting. Zip tied rubber padding around steering rack.

Sunday 31-7-2016.  Put battery on charge.  Topped up coolant, but found it leaking out into drip tray.  Top hose had pulled out of clamp at front of motor, so refitted it with new hose clamp.  Filled coolant. Refitted battery and it started.  Ran for 5 seconds, but oil pressure light did not go out, so investigated.  Oil level low, so started topping it up.  Oil now dribbling into drip tray, and found a pencil sized hole in bottom of oil pan at front. Second hand ones on ebay from UK, Holland and USA range from $60 to $360, but none in Australia. Workshop manual says it is easy to take off, so will do so and patch hole.

Monday 1-8-2016.  Took oil pan off with difficulty.  20 bolts + oil level sensor. Cleaned out oil pan, and pressure cleaned it.  Mixed 2 part epoxy and filled hole with it.  Allowed to dry for 2 hours, then refitted the oil pan.

Sunday 7-8-2016.  QMC4.  Willowbank Raceway.  Fine, warm, light winds.  Test 1 was Eccentric, and when completing the second loop, the right angle gearbox destroyed itself.  Took it home and removed gearbox.  Could not remove input shaft, so photographed gears in place.

IMG_7577 IMG_7578

Geococcyx Velox part 3 – debut to crash.

Sunday 3-5-2015.  Iron Man Motorkhana.  DEBUT OF CAR. Drove it for about 1 metre, and clutch felt funny, so depressed it only to have it stick.

Tuesday 5-5-2015. Fitted return spring and stop on clutch pedal.  Ran wire from oil level switch through terminal 33.

Monday 18-5-2015.  Charged battery and started engine in gear.  Drives wheels.  Started motor in neutral and ran it for 30 seconds.  Tested kill switch and it cuts the motor.

rear foot brakes.

Sunday 7-6-2015.  Bled rear brakes by pressure.

Monday 8-6-2015.  Dropped car onto wheels, and measured ground clearance front and rear.  Both are now 60 mm.  Checked camber on all wheels.  Left front 1 degree negative, right front 4 degrees negative (reset it to 1.5 degrees negative), left rear vertical, right rear vertical.

Tuesday 23-6-2015.  Tack welded right angle drive gearbox to its mounting plate.  Refitted fuel pump, tank and lines.  Re-wired fuel pump.  Made bracket for throttle cable at pedal, and riveted it to pedal.  Drilled and tapped alloy bar and connected it to bracket.  Fitted cable connector to throttle pedal.  Refitted pedal into car.

Tuesday 30-6-2015.  Charged battery and started motor.  It still does not rev over 3000 rpm approx., and cuts out completely.  Found exhaust gas sensor was not screwed in, so did so and tried again.  No difference.

Thursday 2-7-2015.  Took car to Yamaha at Alderley, and the new service manager did not know what to do.  He recommended that I take it back to Marty who is now at Moorooka Yamaha.

Tuesday 7-7-2015.  Took car to Team Moto Yamaha Moorooka and left it on trailer there for Marty to fix.

Monday 13-7-2015.  Throttle position sensor fitted, and high idle was caused by air screws set at 4 turns out instead of ¼ turn out, problems fixed at Team Moto Yamaha Moorooka.  Oil leak from Left Side stator cover, exhaust leaks around headers and mufflers.  Coolant leaking.  Sensor $300.  Total $610.01    OUCH !!!!

Friday 24-7-2015.  Drained oil.  Took left side stator cover off.  Difficult.  Sprocket and shaft came out with it.  Tuesday 28-7-2015.  Degreased stator cover around damaged area, and dried it off.  Squeezed clear silicon into split from both sides.  Let it set overnight.

Wednesday 29-7-2015.  Trialled fit stator cover, then put blue gasket goo on seam.  Installed cover, and tightened it up.  Topped up oil to top of glass gauge, and started motor.  No oil leaks.  Topped up oil again to top of gauge.  Started it again – no oil leaks.

Tuesday 18-8-2015.  Car onto wheels, Charge battery.  Test drove it under house, and clutch not working correctly.  Reverse not being selected by gearlever, even though blue light says so.

Monday 31-8-2015.  Took Lean Angle Sensor off, and took it apart.  Drilled hole in bottom intending to screw the counterweight so that it would not turn, but bottom of weight is magnetic.  Decided instead to simply masking tape the counterweight so that it cannot rotate.  Re-installed in car.  Charged battery.  Tested voltages again.

At rest 12.0V.  Master switch on 12.0V.  Ignition on 12.0V.  Starter engaged 9.0 V.

Sunday 13-9-2015.  Tested voltage between Lean angle sensor and earth and it is 1 volt – what it is supposed to be.

Thursday 7-1-2016.  Connected lost wire from O2 Sensor to wire from ECU.  Tried to start – would not fire.  Tested power to F.I. Relay – OK.  Tested power from F.I. Relay – OK.  There is power at terminal 29.

Friday 8-1-2016.  There is constant power at terminal ECU 7.

Sunday 17-1-2016.  Fitted replacement ECU and tried to start it.  Then used “Start Ya Bastard” and it fired only one cylinder once.  Charged battery.

Wednesday 9-3-2016.  Took car on trailer to Team Moto, Alderley.

Friday 18-3-2016.  Got car back from Team Moto.  One of the wires to the injectors did not connect properly.  Reverted back to original ECU, because replacement is said to be faulty.    $605.00 cost.

I topped up the radiator, and it took only 2 cups to fill.

Sunday 20-3-2016.  DROVE IT FOR FIRST TIME.  Clutch is extremely touchy.  Fully engaged in 2 mm of pedal travel.  Drove it for about 200 metres, turning left and right.  Accelerated and backed off, when a different gear noise occurred.  Checked, and the outside bearing on the input shaft of the right angle drive gearbox had worked out of the housing, and the gears were badly misaligned.  Put it back on the trailer, and brought it home.  Took right angle drive gearbox off, and took apart the input shaft.  Cut a piece of 21 ID tube to same length as the shaft collar.  Reassembled box, and installed it in car.  Worked it by hand, then started car in gear and ran the gearbox.  All seemed to be OK

Wednesday 23-3-2016.  Designed larger right angle drive gearbox using larger gears and 125 SHS.

Sunday 3-4-2016.  Fiat Nationals.  Tested car – broke weld on driveshaft flange.  Re-welded it at home.

Sunday 24-4-2016.  QMC3 at Willowbank.  Could not fit ATS front wheels on car, so had to run rain tyres.  It would not go back into neutral after selecting first gear.  Clutch is still savage.  .  When trying to run Test 2 the weld in the driveshaft snapped.  Brought it home, and prepared shafts for welding.

Monday 25-4-2016.  To French Car Care to get Noel to weld up the prepared driveshaft and re-weld the flange.  Straightened it in press.  Home, and fitted it into the car with the mounting plate re-welded back onto gearbox.

Wednesday 4-5-2016.  Made gaskets from an old mouse mat, and installed them.  Started it, and sound was less harsh.  Made triangular door for RH side, painted it and fitted it.  Made number panels and “G” lettering from “Contact”, and fitted them to both doors.

Sunday 22-5-2016.   HSCCQ Khanacross.  Fine, warm.  Had to put 3.2 mm spacers on rear wheels to get them to clear the brake callipers.  Ran the first test at cautious speed, and noticed that after strong acceleration the car would dart about when the throttle was closed, and slow down quite rapidly from compression braking.  It sounded slightly flat still, and ran fairly well through the rev range.  When I stopped in the finish garage the left front brake was very hot, and smoking.  The rear ride height had dropped significantly, and was only 10 mm from the surface.  The clutch was still dragging, but I managed to get it into neutral to re-start it in the finish garage.

On the second run, it seemed to be able to go through the chicane very quickly, so on the return through it, I went quicker.  It felt slightly loose on the turn in to the first chicane, and at the central chicane suddenly turned left into the concrete barrier and hit it nose first at around 70 kph, then spun anti clockwise to a halt with the rear of the car close to the barrier.  It took quite a while to get out of the car because my shins were very sore, and my Bakers Cyst was very painful, and then when I tried to walk I nearly collapsed because my left leg would not support any weight.  I was helped to a waiting car and driven to the timing tent where it was noticed that there was a lot of blood soaking into my left trouser leg.  It was revealed that I had a deep horizontal gash in the front of my shin right into the bone, and a 45 mm long gash above it.  These wounds were cleaned and two bandages put on them.  Meanwhile I had given my car keys to someone to go and get my car / trailer to pick up the damaged vehicle, but before that could be organised, Noel used the icecream van and his big trailer to go and with help get the damaged car onto the trailer.  I was then driven back to my car, and the big trailer driven up beside it.  The damaged car was taken off the big trailer, the broken right front top ball joint replaced, and manhandled onto my trailer.  I then changed wheels over, and fastened it down to the trailer.  The damage seemed to be the broken rose joint in the upper right front suspension, the left upright broken where the steering arm connects, the bottom right front chassis tube pushed back about 75 mm, and bend downwards, and the left rear lower suspension anchorage broken at the weld.  I surmised that this breakage was what caused the crash.  The “lexan” nosecone was smashed up, and some other broken pieces picked up from the track where it happened.  The car had been enveloped in a cloud of smoke when it stopped, but there was no oil spilled.  I believe this might have been tyre smoke because of how quickly the car stopped.  The left rear wheel brake was leaking at the connection to the calliper, and this was probably caused by the wheel moving further that the hose would accommodate.

The only photo that I have of the car in competition is this one – ironically only 0.25 seconds before the impact.


Bottom Chassis Cause of crash Front Bulkhead Front Footwell Front impact LH Upright

Goecoccyx Part 2 – from assembly to debut.

Geococcyx from chassis paint to debut.

Bonnet Art Front Dampers Front low Motor LH Motor RH Rear Suspension RH Profile

Thursday 9-1-2014.  Set up and finalised painting.  Loaded everything into boot and trailer and brought it home.

Tuesday 14-1-2014.  Reinstalled pedals.  Lowered chassis onto floor, and dropped motor into place.  Installed engine mounts, and lifted it back onto trestles.  Finished installing engine, most electrical components, and most cooling pipes.  Installed electrical mounting board, and clutch master cylinder.

Wednesday 15-1-2014.  Re-painted exhaust manifold, and installed it onto motor.  Installed steering rack, steering shaft and steering wheel.  Installed dashboard.  Painted clutch operating shaft.  Painted gear linkages shafts.  Installed warning lights onto dashboard.  Installed switches onto dashboard.    Glued acrylic labels onto dashboard.

Thursday 16-1-2014.  Painted gear lever handle, air cylinder for gearshift, coolant tubes, steering shaft, fuel pump mount etc.    Fitted start / cutoff relay, tilt switch, fuse box, fan relay, fuel injection relay.  Connected clutch operating rod.

Friday 17-1-2014.  Fitted gear lever and linkages.  Works perfectly.  Fitted air temperature sensor.  Painted mufflers.  Started putting RF suspension arms onto chassis.

Saturday 18-1-2014.  Finished assembling front suspension members.  Installed first muffler, but not exhaust probe.  Partly installed firewall.

Wednesday 29-1-2014.  Installed rear suspension arms, uprights etc.

Sunday 2-3-2014.  Installed side “Lexan” panels.

Tuesday 11-3-2014.  Installed rear brake callipers for both foot and turning brakes.

Friday 20-6-2014.  Drained oil from VW Golf Gearbox, and removed outer housing.  Removed Input Shaft.  Removed 4th gear from Output Shaft.

Sunday 22-6-2014.  Removed Input Shaft.  Removed 3rd gear from output shaft.  Removed all gear linkages.    Installed Input Shaft with new thrust bearing, synchros for gears, and installed 4th gear on shaft.  Made 13 mm long spacer for selector shaft to stop selector falling all the way off synchros.  Installed chain sprocket on Output Shaft, and 4th gear onto shaft.  Tried to install ½” chain of 24 links, but it fell short by one link.  Checked that the sprockets were the correct number of teeth (12 & 15), and of ½”size.  Chain does not sit on 15 tooth sprocket correctly.  It seems to sit proud of the teeth.  It sits on 12 tooth sprocket correctly.

Monday 23-6-2014.  Took Input Shaft out to check on chain wrap.  The chain does not sit correctly into sprocket.  Took it back to Mergard Engineering, because 12t was ½” BS sprocket, and 15t was ASA sprocket.  ASA chain does work on BS sprockets, but BS chain does not work on ASA sprockets.  They cannot re-machine the ASA sprocket to be a BS form, so suggested using an ASA chain on the both sprockets.  Found some old ½” ASA chain (used), tried it out over the sprockets, and it fits.  Fitted a BS chain link to it, and re-assembled everything.

Wednesday 25-6-2014.  Painted F/R Gearbox with silver Hammertone.

Thursday 26-6-2014.  Weighed F/R Gearbox without oil.  Winched gearbox into chassis, and bolted it in.  Installed right angle drive gearbox, and driveshaft.   Installed cover plate. Installed half shafts, and bolted up inner CV joints.  Installed toe link rods.  Installed rear damper unit mounting to gearbox and chassis.  Installed rear suspension units.  Installed F/R air cylinder, and connected it to gear lever. Installed lower cross brace into roll bar.

Friday 27-6-2014.  Replaced air filter element and cover.  Riveted air reservoir bracket onto chassis, and fitted air reservoir cylinder into it.  Connected air lines up.  Installed second muffler.  Installed fuel tank bracket and fuel tank.  Installed fuel pump and lines.  Installed rear cover plate. Spray painted overflow bottle bracket, and installed it.

Thursday 31-7-2014.  Plumbed brake lines to foot brakes on 4 wheels, and from turning brakes to lever area.

Wednesday 13-8-2014.  Winched  car onto concrete, and sat it on some tube to get the exact centre of gravity.  Measured it at 886 mm from outside of rear bulkhead.

Thursday 14-8-2014.  Fabricated lifting lug cross frame and lug.  Welded it into chassis.  Painted it.  Calculated 35% on Front Wheels, 65% on Rear Wheels, empty.

Friday 15-8-2014.  Winched car up with central lifting lug, and placed it on tables.  Made 3 mm thick alloy plate for Turning Brake Mechanism.  Drilled chassis tubes and inserted RIVNUTS.  Bolted it to chassis, and bolted turning brake mechanism to it.

Thursday 21-8-2014.  Started wiring up Reversing switch from warning light, & to solenoid.

Friday 22-8-2014.  Finalised wiring to reversing solenoid.    Works properly manually.

Friday 5-9-2014.  Mounted fuel pump  lower in chassis, then lowered fuel tank the same amount.  Now fuel return hose does not touch spring/damper unit.  Ran hose from oil breather to overflow bottle.

Tuesday 9-9-2014.  Wired up fuel pump.  Fitted front footwell side “Lexan” panels.

Sunday 14-9-2014.  Trimmed “Lexan” front side panels, and fitted tie bars to them.

Tuesday 16-9-2014.  Fitted throttle cable to system, and put heavier spring on return cable.

Sunday 21-9-2014.  M12 Rod ends in top front uprights.  Checked fluid in clutch master cylinder.  Brake fluid into turning brakes master cylinders.  Brake fluid into foot brakes.

Tuesday 23-9-2014.  Replaced kill switch with Narva 60094BL push/push on/off 16A 12V red LED from Bursons.

Wednesday 3-12-2014.  Cut steering shaft shorter.

Thursday 4-12-2014.  Lowered car onto wheels, out into sunshine, and photographed it.

Sunday 7-12-2014.  Painted front suspension arms.

Saturday 20-12-2014. Used vacuum device to drag fluid through lines to rear brakes, but it left air pockets at callipers and at the steel fittings at master cylinders.  Swapped fittings on turning brake master cylinders to be on inside of car to clear the brake lever.

Tuesday 30-12-2014.  Fitted M6 Nutserts for Fire Extinguisher, and bolted the bracket on.  Installed extinguisher.



Thursday 1-1-2015.  Sprayed steel mount for clutch master cylinder.  Sprayed mount for turning brake lever and master cylinders.

Wednesday 7-1-2015.  Bought new seal kits for VW Golf Mk 1 Girling brake callipers, and fitted them to car.  Bled system.

Friday 9-1-2015.  Coolant into radiator, gearbox oil into VW Golf box.

Saturday 10-1-2015.  Oil into motor.

Monday 16-2-2015.  Made another new 20 dia steel brake fitting for LR brake.  Ran air injection breather hose into overflow bottle.

Tuesday 10-3-2015.  Hoisted car down onto its wheels, and did wheel alignment.  Almost no movement vertically with 100 kg applied to chassis, so maybe the rockers need to be re-engineered.  Put it in gear and pushed it along to unlock motor, and it turned over OK.  Right angle gearbox seems to make a lot of noise.

Thursday 12-3-2015.  Connected battery, and turned on ignition.  Tested forward/reverse light and it works.  Fan does not turn.  Took fan off and tested it, and it works.  Deducted there is a wiring problem to the fan.  Hit starter without plugs fitted, and motor turns over well.  Soaked up ‘Redex’ from cylinders with rag, and fitted plugs.

Thursday 19-3-2015.  Removed throttle bodies complete, and cleaned them with WD40.  Suddenly they work, so must have been stuck with dried fuel etc.  Reassembled throttle bodies, and then ram tubes and air filter.  Connected accelerator pedal, and it now works the throttle.

Saturday 21-3-2015.  Rewired fan and ignition through new fuse box, and now fan works.

Tuesday 24-3-2015.  Tested power at coils and leads, and it is OK.  Could not find the trigger sensor that Yamaha had told me about.  Built towing eye, painted it, and installed it.  Charged battery.

Wednesday 25-3-2015.  Onto trailer and taken to Team Moto Yamaha.  They checked wiring, and asked if I had power at the coils.  We checked all that, but there is no sparks.  They then asked me to take out the trigger sensor, while they stole one off a police bike, and we swapped them over.  Still no spark.  They tested circuits, and found some were earthed correctly, and some not.  They could not work out why.  So we made a common earth for lots of circuits, and tried the starter, and we got spark.  Connected them better, and tried to start.  They advised that my fuel pump is only 4psi, and I need 40 psi for fuel injection, and so it would not run properly with only that much fuel.  So they got some aerostart, and sprayed it into the intakes, and the car fired up and ran.  Even revved up a little.  Took an hour and a half to find the problem.  We then swapped over my trigger for the police unit, and mine works perfectly; so it was the earthing problem causing it all.  They also advised that I do not need such a long set of ram tubes, and they work quite well with pod filters on the short tubes.  The air temp sensor does not need to go inside the tubes, just hanging about in the area of the intake.

Tuesday 31-3-2015.  Bought new fuel pump, 12 mm to/ 8 mm hose tail, ½” hose and clamps.  Made bracket for new fuel pump.

Friday 3-4-2015.  Made recessed aluminium mount for 40 psi fuel pump, and fitted it.  Fitted new fuel pump.

Saturday 4-4-2015.  Wired up new fuel pump.

Monday 13-4-2015.  Made new right angle drive gearbox with welded on bearing holders.

Sunday 3-5-2015.  Iron Man Motorkhana.  DEBUT OF CAR.





Construction of the eighth motorkhana special has actually started, and this blog will be upgraded every week or so to show the progress. The name for the car has been chosen, and it is Geococcyx Velox.  The Lesser Roadrunner, located mainly in Mexico, and is smaller and browner than its American Cousin Geococcyx Californianus.  I did not want it to be called “an american areshole”. It is powered by a Yamaha FJR1300 motor, which is supposed to have 145 HP (instead of the current car’s 75), and three times the torque rating of the existing car. This motor was purchased from Melbourne, and arrived on 29th December, 2009.  It took some time to sort it out, and get the motor out of the alloy frame for the bike.  The radiator had been damaged and was broken around one of the outlets, and replacements are very expensive.  I bought a second hand radiator from a dirt bike for $10, and found that it was completely clogged with dried mud and dirt.  A quick blast with the Karcher cleared it all, and looks brand new.

Because the new motor is shaft drive, a right angle gearbox to transmit the shaft drive into the input shaft of the VW Golf Mk 1 gearbox had to be designed, and the internal gears purchased from TEA Transmissions in Tiaro. The box was fabricated from a piece of 100 x 3 SHS, with a removable top section. Bearing housings were fabricated from 40 NB pipe, and bolt to the walls of the SHS.   20 mm sealed ball bearings do the rotation of the shafts, and a clutch spigot welded to the output shaft.  This was completed on 21-11-2011.

The actual chassis frame was started on 11-1-2012, and is made from 25 x 1.6 SHS, with 540 mm inside the rear frame members, (top & bottom), and 300 mm between them vertically.  Brackets were fitted to this to mount the VW Golf Mk 1 gearbox, and brackets to mount the motor in the chassis.  The front engine mounts are bolted to the motor, and the horizontal SHS member sits on the top chassis rails where it bolts on.  This is to make the engine removal and refitment easy.

Steel plate mounts for the right angle drive box were fabricated, and the area above it where the bell housing is situated was infilled with light gauge metal.  The driveshaft from the engine to the right angle box was manufactured with a double plate joint in the centre.

The fuel injection had come off the block of the motor during transport, and it was replaced using a special home made allen wrench.  The standard bike airbox is huge, and would have gone almost to the rear of the chassis, so the nose was cut off a VW Golf Mk 1 airbox to allow 4 pipes of 38 mm diameter to fit into it, and a light gauge sheet metal plate fabricated to suit.  4 pieces of this tube fit between the rubber pipes on the injector plate to replicate the long injector tubes, and the Golf airbox fitted up to it.  The inlet tube for this airbox was long enough to foul with the rear dampers, so it was cut short.

The exhaust system was next, and the original primary pipes were badly crushed when the bike was crashed, so only the first bend and about 120 mm length was useable.  Mandrel bends of 90 degrees were bought from the muffler shop, with a 4 into 1 collector, and a 2 inch bend included.  A jig to replicate the position of the exhaust ports and all the motor mounts was fabricated, and the exhaust system welded up with difficulty because the primary pipes are very thin and made from some unusual material, and they were very difficult to weld without blowing holes in them.  The exhausts were fitted on 15-11-2012.

The cleaned radiator with its fan was mounted on 22-11-2012, and the original alloy transfer pipes made for the FJR radiator were modified to suit the smaller radiator.  The coolant reservoir went on a few days later.

The front part of the chassis was tacked together on 26-11-2012, and joined with the rear part of the chassis.  Diagonal members to strengthen this area were tacked in.  The right angle drive gearbox had dedicated chassis mounts fabricated, and light gauge sheet meatal covers the rest of the bell housing.Chassis from Left Front.

The 1-5 gear linkages were manufactured using M6 rod end bearings and transfer shafts going to the lever in the cockpit, which is topped by a hand carved silky oak wooden ball of 40 millimetres diameter.  Then the two alloy pedals were folded up from the old alloy side panels from special No 6 (Gonzales).

A driveshaft for a FJR1300 arrived from USA on 10-12-2012, and it was cut short and butt welded to the short stub axle on the right angle drive gearbox.  Next day the two roll bars were cut to length and angle, and tack welded to the chassis.  The 1.6 mm Zincanneal floor pan, firewall and seat sides were fitted, and upholstery and padding fitted to them.  The seat cushion and seat back were fitted with home sewn covers in red vinyl.

A three litre fuel tank for a kart was purchased, and mounting brackets built to hold it in place.  The fuel pump was positioned below it, and the fuel lines to the injectors sorted out and plumbed.  The mounts for the rear suspension units were fabricated, and the intake oval tube of the VW Golf air cleaned cut short to clear.

All the rear suspension mounts were tacked to the chassis on 19-12-2012, and the clutch lines and master cylinder re-positioned.  A new aluminium clutch lever was hand built from part of the original FJR alloy chassis, but I made it opposite hand from what it was supposed to be.  4 hours work down the drain.  A new one was made from 10 mm alloy plate.  The operation rods to the pedal were fitted with M6 rod ends.

A zig-zag mounting bar for the front suspension mounts was fabricated and tack welded into the front chassis.  The dashboard brace member was tacked in place on 2-1-2013, and the steering shaft made from some old 3/4″ OD tubing, bolted into the universal joint on the steering rack.  A pressed plummer bearing was fitted to the dashboard brace to support the steering column, and a suitable bolt found to use as the steering wheel boss.

Next day saw some of the unwanted wiring removed from the loom.  Things like lights, windscreen wiring and the like were identified.  This will be a long job.  The brake master cylinders were positioned on a small frame, and extensions made from the brake balance bar to the cylinders.  Designs were produced for two different turning brake arrangements.  One similar to the existing car with individual levers on each side of the car working different rear wheel brakes; and a single lever arrangement where the lever is mounted on the right hand side of the cockpit, and it is pushed to operate the right hand side brake, and pulled to operate the left hand side brake.  The latter one was manufactured on 5-1-2013, with an intricate brass ferrule that allows the lever to move back and forth but only operate one cylinder at a time.

After weeks of work, the wiring nightmare that was the original harness has been redone, with all the main components installed flush in the left hand side chassis in the cockpit area.  Some of the wiring has been made into a new harness, but the forward / reverse electricals have yet to be installed, so they will form part of another harness.

Diagonal braces made from 20 x 1.6 SHS were cut and tack welded into the side frames, positioned to clear driveshafts and the like.  Spring / damper suspension units were sourced from local suppliers, and the mounting brackets to anchor them to the chassis were fabricated.  Rocker plates for the pushrod suspension were fabricated, and tack welded into position.  When the suspension units arrived, they turned out to be of different lengths, so the rear brackets had to be cut off, and remade.  The suspension A Arm pickup points were tacked onto the chassis, and jigs made for assembly of the upper and lower A arms for front and rear.  The design of home made front uprights was finalised, and the components fabricated utilising 20 diameter sealed ball bearings.  A special purpose hub / disc was designed and turned up from a piece of 25 mm plate.  The A arms were fabricated from 17.1 OD x 3.2 wall seamless tubing, and fitted to front and rear, and the pushrods fabricated from the same material.  When all were fitted, the temporary supports made from coat hanger wire could be removed.

The rear hubs are VW Golf front hubs, with the discs machined down to 220 diameter instead of 240, and to 4 mm thickness instead of 12.  Major weight savings here.  New lower ball joints, and new inner and outer C.V. joints were installed.  The rear suspension toe links were fabricated in the “Khanacross” configuration with anchor points on the centreline of the chassis, and fully adjustable anchors for the “motorkhana” configuration have been fabricated, but not yet installed.

Progress on the car has been stalled for a fortnight or so because of cataract surgery on my eye.

The clear Lexan bodywork arrived on 6th March, but part of it was manufactured incorrectly, and had to be returned.  The remade part arrived on 7th March, and mountings were manufactured for it.  An old fire extinguisher cylinder was modified to use as the air pressure reservoir for the forward / reverse pneumatic cylinder, and a connection made for the cylinder rod to mate to a M6 female rod end.  The cylinder and reservoir were plumbed on 9th May.

The brake calipers off my old Kawasaki GT550 were mounted on the front uprights, and clamp on the machined hub / disc.  Old KLR650 brake calipers were mounted on the rear hubs, to clamp onto the machined down VW Golf discs.  The standard VW Golf calipers are retained for the turning brakes.  Kart type nylon brake fittings and lines were purchased, but the threads did not match any of the calipers.  Adaptors were not available anywhere in the world, so I made my own banjo fittings from solid aluminium to mate to the bike calipers, and the Golf calipers re-threaded to suit the kart fittings.  All the master cylinders had solid alloy connectors made for them.

The turning brake lever had an aluminium plug made to mount the push/push switch for activating the forward and reverse mechanism, and fitted in place.

Now that nearly everything is manufactured and installed, it is time to take it all apart, fully weld the chassis and metalwork, blast and paint it.

The car has been stripped, and the chassis fully welded.  It is going into the paint booth in early January 2014, and is to be painted “Phantom Pearl”.  Then it will be all put together again.  The clear lexan bonnet has the name of the car painted on it, and the artwork completed.


CASPER, the Friendly Special.

CASPER, the Friendly Special.

This is the seventh motorkhana Special built by Alan Wheeley.  Casper was the first of his specials that was completely designed by AutoCAD in a computer.  The previous special, Gonzales, handled badly because of the lack of rear suspension, so this new car was designed with independant A Arm rear suspension, with an open differential so individual turning brakes could be used.  Two VW Golf gearboxes were lying around, so one of them was designed into the car.  The Z1000 Kawasaki bike motor out of the old car was tuned by a bike shop, and prepared for the new car.  The internal gears of the VW gearbox were measured, and it was found that 4th gear would provide about 90 kilometres per hour at 11,000 rpm, and first gear in the bike box.  Because third and fourth gears are side by side on the input shaft, and have synchromesh between them. it was decided to convert the third gear set into chain sprockets, wrap a chain around them, and have a reverse gear set with synchros between forward and reverse.  The gears were very carefully measured, and drawings produced for the specialised manufacture of these components.  Because of the size of the synchro rings, the sprockets would give a top speed in first gear of 97 kph.

In January 2002, many lengths of 38.1 OD x 1.6 mm wall 350 grade ERW Tube were purchased.  On Sunday 3-2-2002 a start was made on fabricating the chassis frames.  The upper and lower frames were welded up, but ran out of welding rods.  On Wednesday 6-2-2002 the basic chassis was finished.  Next day took the motor out of Gonzales, put it in position in Casper, and fabricated the engine mounts.  20-2-2002 got the cage pipes bent, and next day welded them up.  On 23-2-02 welded the 1.6 mm Zincanneal floor pan on.  25-2-02 made and fitted firewall.  Next day started the long slow process of fabricating and installing all the ancillaries like gear linkages, pedal mounts, dashboard, chain tensioners.

On 6-3-02 started on the rear suspension, by making the suspension mounting brackets, but found that the proposed De Dion Beam fouls on the arc of the kick starter. Experimented with upside down rear suspension, but discarded the idea.  8-3-02 returned to the A Arm wishbone design, and fabricated all the suspension arms in the following week.  The front suspension was started on 15-3-02.

The footwell of the car was designed to take three pedals across the car.  Then a different idea was thought of where the accelerator and brake pedal were combined into one pedal.  Because even F1 drivers take 0.2 seconds to get off the accelerator and onto the brake, and then 0.2 seconds to get back onto the accelerator, meaning that even a F1 driver would spend 0.4 seconds at each pole neither accelerating nor braking.  In the Multiple Loop Test, there are 11 instances of this being needed, resulting of at least 4.4 seconds being lost.  So an aluminium accelerator pedal was built, and hinged at the bottom on a 25 SHS frame, which surrounds the pedal.  A throttle cable end was anchored on the side of the pedal, and the sheath anchored on the frame, to make the accelerator work in relation to the frame.  Then the whole frame was hinged at the top on the main chassis, with this frame pushing on the brake master cylinders through a balance bar.  The Bowden Cable then was anchored to the chassis with an “S” bend in it to allow for the brake pedal movement.  This means now that the driver’s right foot never has to leave the accelerator nor brake pedal.


Work on the front suspension took another week to finish.  Work on the rear suspension took another week.  Four wheel steering is not allowed in Motorkhana Group 4H Regulations.  It was banned many years ago.  Because I was using VW Glof Mk 1 front hubs on the rear, I realised that there was a possibility of passively steering these rear wheels if the toe link connecting the steering arm was mounted on the chassis higher than on the upright.  Then when the car rolled on its suspension in a turn, the outside wheel would turn outwards, and the inside wheel would turn inwards, with the result being a car that would automatically turn the rear wheels around poles.  6 millimetres difference in height was built into the mounting points.  The photo below shows the rear wheel steering in action.


Another week was spent building and fitting all the brakes.  Then another week for all the fuel systems.  Then on 17-4-02 everything was taken off the chassis ready for painting, which took another week.  Then the job of re-installing everything started.  Along the way, I designed a lifting system into the trailer, consisting of two SHS frames hinged in the inside of the trailer, that normally sit flat with the chassis.  The pivot point axles have 3/4″ chain sprockets on them with a chain wrapped around them.  A Goggomobile jack was mounted so that when the nut was turned, the jack extends, and makes both the frames come up together under the car to raise it off the wheels, and leave it at a better height to work on.


38 ID x 13 wall Roll Bar Padding was glued onto the cage.  Then the bodywork was started in clear acrylic.  The car was then taken to the bike expert where it was tuned, new timing chain fitted, and new jets in the carbs.  On 6-7-02 the firewall, seat, belts were installed, and the chain for the primary drive cut to length.  A standard VW Golf gearbox was fitted to check all the alignments.  New master cylinders were fitted on 17-7-02, but bleeding them was a problem because they were mounted on the floor, and the turning brakes high up.  All the brake fluid kept running back into the master cylinders.  A week later, and a rough wheel alignment performed so that the car could be driven for the first time on Saturday 3-8-02.  The rear suspension bottomed out with a 100 kg load, so the suspension arms were relocated. 

Sunday 24-8-2002 was its first competition at the MG Car Club Ironman event, where the motor did not run properly at low revs, the brakes were very bad, and the rear wheel steering was too violent.  The steering ratio was not good, with too many turns needed to go from lock to lock.  A week later, new brake balance bars were fabricated to try to solve the brakes, and the rear suspension bottoming was solved by the fittment of new spring/damper units.  Sunday 8-9-2002 was the Queensland Motorkhana Championship Round 5 at Queensland Raceway where the brakes were still bad, the motor still ran poorly, and oil started leaking out of the tacho drive.  Things were no better at Round 6 on 17-11-02, but at least the turning brakes were working well.

To solve the steering problem, a Go-Kart style system was built, and together with a new larger diameter steering wheel was tried out on 2-2-03.  The steering shaft sheared from the pressure, so a design utilising a modified Renault 10 rack was started.  To try to solve the motor problems, a new air box was made from a VW Golf unit.  It was all tested out at Round 1 of the QMC on 23-3-03, but the fuel pump failed.  New hotter spark plugs were tried, but it started backfiring and running very rich.  Testing was halted by a broken C.V. Joint.

At this point it was decided to give up on the Kawasaki Z1000 motor, and get a younger replacement.  On 8-4-04 a Kawasaki ZXR-750 was purchased for $1600.  Six months later the change over was started.  The motor mounts are different, so the old ones were cut off, and new ones fabricated.  The exhaust pipe centres are different, so new pipes were manufactured using the old ones as a basis.

In January 2005, when the chain was being fitted, it was found that the newer motor has 5/8″ chain, so all new sprockets and chains have to be purchased.  The new motor is water cooled, so a radiator position had to be finalised, and all the pipes connected up.  on 12-2-05 all was ready for a test firing of the motor, but when the isolating switch was connected there was a giant spark in the electrics.  A dead short in one of the terminals.  Fixed that, and the engine started and ran, but the revs climbed after 10 seconds.  An extra spring was put onto the throttle return cable, but no difference.  Investigations showed that the choke cable was sticking, so an extra spring was fitted to it so solve the problem.

The first competition with the new motor was on 13-2-05 where the ride height was set too low, but the motor ran well.  A new chain path was designed to better utilise the chain, and two teeth taken out of the chain to make it all work.  The car was towed out to Roma for a demonstration motorkhana where it kept jumping out of gear on the over-run.  When the gearbox was taken apart, it was found that the circlip was not fitted properly to the end of the input shaft, and the pressure on the gears made the shaft slide through the box.  On the over-run, the movement caused it to jump out of gear.

New “Lexan” bodywork was fitted to the car just before towing it all the way to Perth for the AMC in 2005 where the chain adjuster came off halfway through the competition.  With not enough time to solve the problem, it was loaded on the trailer for the 4,000 kilometre journey home.

A home made steering rack was manufactured for the car in February 2006, and a restrictor placed in the fuel return line.  The brake balance bar was removed, and replaced with a simpler system.  In June 2006, a reversing mirror was built, but the field of vision was not good enough to use in competition.

Just after the AMC of 2006 (held in Brisbane), an air operated forward/reverse system was manufactured using a pneumatic cylinder to change direction in the box, powered by a reservoir, and switched by a button on the right hand turning brake.  The systen was tested on 8-11-06, and all worked well.


Early in 2007, a new smaller diameter steering wheel was built and tested OK.  2 degrees negative camber was built into the front suspension to better utilise the front tyres.  In July 2007, new front spring/damper units off a Suzuki RGV250 were tried on the front, and the resultant firmer front suspension made a great improvement to the handling.  The steering was still not good, so an “Edge” steering rack from a sand buggy was obtained.  It was fitted in October, 2007 with another improvement in performance.

January 2008 saw a major rebuild, and a change of colour to Hammertone Charcoal.  It was towed to Rockhampton for Round 1 of the QMC, but somehow water had got into the fuel tank, and it would not run properly.  The first test was missed while trying to flush some fresh fuel and metho through the lines, and by the end of the day it started to run at over 6000 rpm again.  Next day at Gladstone, it ran better again.

At a private test day on 5-5-08 all the corner weights were tested both with driver aboard and empty.  Caster and camber gauge settings were checked and adjusted.  A camera was set up to film the suspension at work, and the results analized.  The next week, the old problem of jumping out of gear re-appeared, and it was found out that the circlip had come off the input shaft again because of the sideways pressure.  The VW Gearbox is technically running backwards from the Golf design, so the shaft was taken out and washers fitted at the loaded end.

The clutch started playing up in November 2008, and it was found out that the standard Kawasaki clutch master cylinders are pressure bled when new, and so the position of the bleed hole is not important.  This was only found out after buying replacement parts at great expense, and so a different type of clutch cylinder was fitted.


At the next motorkhana, the right rear suspension unit sheared off, so Kayaba suspension units were purchased to replace the originals.  One sprung a leak, and had to be rebuilt.  New 7″ x 13″ rims were fitted for the Wheels on Wide Bay event, but something broke in the gearbox.  When the box was taken apart, there were broken teeth on both gears, half a tooth was broken off the diff gear, and the diff pinion severely damaged.  The thrust washers had failed, and jammed the gear teeth.


The input shaft was then ground to suit a proper thrust bearing, and all re-assembled.  It all worked well for the Iron Man Motorkhana where the car won outright.  A new muffler replaced the hot dog unit to soften the harshness of the sound.  The plastic coolant header tank was replaced by a metal one in 2011, after the plastic one melted.


Some American brand crossply slicks were tried out in September 2011, but because of the light weight of the car, they did not build up any temperature on the front, and subsequently did not grip well.  All sorts of tyre pressures were tried with no better result.  So a pair of Formula SAE front Hoosier tyres were purchased to put on the front wheels.  Grip was suddenly improved.  New lower front A arms were fabricated to get 30 millimetres of caster in the fronts to better utilise the tyres, but this caused a problem on full lock in reverse, where it became difficult to get the car straight again.

Goggomobil Special.

Goggomobil Special.


Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.

This is the first Motorkhana Special built by Alan Wheeley.


On Thursday 23rd November, 1972, Trevor Holmes delivered the Goggomobil Sedan that I had bought from him.  On Saturday 9th December I drove it for the first time around some streets in Kingston.

On Sunday 25th March, 1973, the body was taken off the chassis.  I then had 100 or so M6 bolts and nuts with flat & spring washers.  The fibreglass body was sat on some wooden flooring in the yard as a cubby house for my nieces to play in.  On Saturday 31st March, the chassis was driven for the first time.

The car’s debut motorkhana was on Sunday 1st April, 1973, at Lakeside in the QMSC Gymkhana.

On Friday 6th April a melted piston was found in the motor.

On Saturday 14th April a full roll cage was bolted to the chassis.  Next day was the QMC 1, at Coombaba, resulting in the Goggo motor broken again.  On Thursday 26th July the engine came back from a full rebuild by Henry Benson, and was installed on 30th July.  The next Motorkhana was at Lakeside on Sunday 5th August, followed by the Interclub Motorkhana at Surfers Paradise Motor Racing Circuit on Sunday 9th September.  At this event Keith Butcher drove the car around the pit roads with John Virtue acting like a motorcycle sidecar passenger by hanging out the side of the cage on the inside of corners.  He yelled out to Keith to do two left hand corners, and then two right hand turns with him transferring to the other side of the cage.  Unbeknown to him there was a gateway in the fence between the marshalling area and the pit area, so after the two left hand turns Keith turned right through the gateway with John still hanging out the left hand side of the cage.  The car went up onto two wheels with John nearly scraping his back on the bitumen.  The episode gave both of them a big fright.

On Sunday 14th October a set of stinger expansion chambers was designed for the motor, and they were built on 25th October.

The next Motorkhana was on 28th October, and on 2nd November a set of tyres were hand cut for dirt events.  The stinger expansion chambers were fitted on 12th November, which increased the power from 15 HP to 16HP, but increased the noise by a factor of 100.  It made the motor incredibly loud.  It was taken to Lakeside on 17th November for the sprints, on a borrowed trailer which broke on the way home.

Dad had found another Goggomobil Sedan in Townsville, so on his next trip to Brisbane, he brought it down the 1000 miles on his box trailer.  It really looked funny sitting on top of the trailer, but he was less impressed when he found out I was going to use it as spares only.  He arrived on Sunday 16th December, 1973.  Special mudguards were fitted for dirt events on Saturday 22nd December.

The body came off the second car on Saturday 19th January, 1974, and the whole lot was shifted to my new house on Saturday 23rd February, 1974.  A trailer was purchased on 23rd March to tow the special on, and it needed lots of work to be prepared for its new job.  Alan Huxley did the welding on the trailer, and it was first used to tow the Special to Toowoomba for the second round of the Queensland Championships on Sunday 21st April.

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The next Motorkhana was at Lakeside on Sunday 5th May, where the Goggo won outright.  Softer front springs were installed in the front suspension on 29th May, and the settings were modified on 17th June in time for the White Horse Inn Motorkhana on 30th June.  On 7th July it went to Canungra for the next event, but at the Mt Cotton Hillclimb on 14th July, there were big problems with the brakes.  They were fixed in time for the QMROA Motorkhana on 21st July, but the motor did not perform up th scratch.  The motor was worked on during August, and became healthy again for Sunday 8th September when the car was sold to Greg Quelhurst and Ian Johnson of Sunnybank.  All the spare parts were delivered to them at the Australian Motorkhana Championships at Surfers Paradise Raceway.

Greg and Ian used it in one Motorkhana, and then played with it in the paddock beside their homes, where it was destroyed by jumping it off a large earth bank.



Thanks to Graham Ruckert, I now have photographs of the car.