GEOCOCCYX BLOG 2021.
Friday 1-1-2021. Drilled coolant brass pipe, and fitted it to hose.
Saturday 2-1-2021. Spray painted dashboard & number panels again.
Sunday 3-1-2021. Sprayed Chassis, using 1.5 cans of Cyan paint. Photographed it.
Monday 4-1-2021. Touch up paint on rollbar & dashboard.
Tuesday 5-1-2021. Engine back in, exhaust flange made.
Wednesday 6-1-2021. Replaced dashboard electrics.
Thursday 7-1-2021. Installed master switch, heat shields, and mount for starter solenoid and regulator. Made new earth terminal for regulator. Installed motor earth cable, exhaust system, warm-up cable.
Friday 8-1-2021. Fitted Radiator and cooling pipes.
Saturday 9-1-2021. Fitted new gear lever transfer bracket and gear lever rods, differential, drain tank and hoses, radiator top up tank, F/R lever extension. Wired socket for selfie stick. Fitted air filter pods. Sprayed rear cross beams. Installed turning brake bracket. Replaced steel pipe for coolant bleeder with 6 mm inside diameter fuel hose.
Sunday 10-1-2021. Painted lots of parts. Installed rear cross beams, air reservoir, air cylinders with brackets and wiring, fuel tank mount, rear suspension and dampers. Installed rear cross bracing members.
Monday 11-1-2021. Made new signs for pedals. Installed fuel tank, fuel pump and mounting, shortened fuel line from filter to pump. Plumbed fuel lines to injection. Broke switch on reverse lever. Installed F/R transfer bracket and rods, pedals and clutch cylinder.
Tuesday 12-1-2021. Bought new reversing light switch, and fitted it. Connected throttle cable, clutch line. Fitted steering rack to its mount, and then fitted it to car. Installed cover shield.
Wednesday 13-1-2021. Installed steering shaft into rack, fitted wheel, front suspension, front brakes.
Thursday 14-1-2021. Installed rear brakes. Installed turning brakes
Friday 15-1-2021. Re-routed turning brake. Wired up turning brakes, and made new terminal mount. Re-routed clutch line. Painted seat sides. Sprayed clear on number panels, and when dried put new “G” onto them. Took lots of photographs.
Saturday 16-1-2021. Bled clutch and brakes, installed firewall and seat sides, rear view mirror, test diagram holder, seat belts.
Sunday 17-1-2021. Reassembled leads at master switch, and taped the terminals. Charged battery. Tried to start engine, but there seems to be no spark. Unplugged lead to No 1 plug and removed it, and there is no spark across terminals. Reassembled plug, and found brake fluid all through the starter solenoid and wiring. Checked all the fuses, and none are blown. Sprayed all of the wires around the starter solenoid with WD40, and allowed it to dry.
Monday 18-1-2021. Checked wiring. Removed and repositioned lean angle sensor. Still will not fire. Made cushion for upper back of seat.
Tuesday 19-1-2021. Set up electronic dash, and tried to get error codes. Inconsistent results. I do not know if I am doing it correctly. Charged battery because it was getting low from running the fuel pump. Tried again later, but same results. Will not fire up. Installed upper seat cushion.
Thursday 21-1-2021. Sprayed terminals on lean angle sensor, took it completely apart. Tested values, but could not make sense of them. Unplugged ECU, and reconnected it. Found wire missing from fan light switch, and replaced it. Diagnostic dash will not work.
Friday 22-1-2021. Got diagnostic dashboard working, and it gave me code 13 – intake air sender. Traced wires, and found they were routed incorrectly. Fixed that, and diagnosis now code 14 – intake air piping. Can’t find anything wrong with it. Checked diagram in workshop manual. Cannot work out how to delete old error codes
Saturday 23-1-2021. Charged battery, cleaned wires to starter solenoid, fuses, etc, and reassembled. No change. Shorted across Kill switch, and still no firing. Removed one wire from kill switch, and the starter turns but does not fire. Tested kill switch, and decided to replace it.
Sunday 24-1-2021. Measured voltage going back to ECU from Lean angle Sensor, and it is 11.2 volts. Measured amperage at battery, and it is 10 amps. Calculated resistor value needed, but was unsure of what I was doing. Rang Kerry Williams, and he suggested wiring a resistor into the system. Talked to Dave James, and he suggested using a 5 Volt regulator in the line, then a 10K potentiometer until we get the correct values going back to the ECU. Then measure the pot, and get a solid resistor of that value, and wire it into the box, then fill it with epoxy. Will get part of the wiring diagram that has the lean angle sensor in it, and send it to him. Later I thought of putting a Voltage regulator of 1.2 V in the line, and found one on the web for $16 approx.
Monday 25-1-2021. To Bursons, Autobarn, electrical suppliers, JCar, and auto electrician chasing kills switch and voltage regulator. Bought a new switch from JCar, and ordered a voltage regulator from R S Components.
Tuesday 26-1-2021. Australia Day. Re-installed previous kill switch. Soldered wires to terminals from old LAS. Tyres onto car. Cleaned out vacuum brake bleeding handle, and it works again properly.
Thursday 28-1-2021. Resoldered leads onto blades for LAS voltage regulator. Got out TPS units and tested them all.
Monday 1-2-2021. Made new ralloy mounts for RV mirror.
Tuesday 2-2-2021. Voltage Regulator arrived, and I soldered it into circuit. Tested it’s voltage between yellow/black and Black/blue and it is 1.12 volts. Connected up terminal 23, and fuel pump. Engine turns over but does not fire. Replaced ECU, and same thing.
Stumped. Made aluminium cover for mirror, painted it.
Wednesday 3-2-2021. Fitted RV Mirror cover. Tried to work out error codes. Tried to work out if the wiring to Dashboard is correct. Checked photos and wiring diagrams.
Thursday 4-2-2021. Took Master switch off, and repositioned it to the front of the front cage. Rewired it, and made new battery cover from paxolin. Fitted it.
Friday 5-2-2021. Worked out how to get diagnostic values from dashboard, but did not know how to manipulate them. Most of the readings are correct, except for 08 Lean angle cutoff switch which reads 50 on dash (should be 0.4 to 1.4 V), but reads 1.1 V on multimeter.
Saturday 6-2-2021. Tried to clear error codes, but without success. It has Error 21 (Coolant Temp Sensor) and Error 41 (Lean Angle Sensor), both of which I have fixed. Checked wires to kill switch, and redrew diagram to suit. Assembled firewall, seat, belts again, but it still will not fire.
Sunday 7-2-2021. Tested continuity of wires going to terminals to coils, and they seem to be OK. Same with kill switch. Same with terminals 27, 28, 29 & 30. Tested wires to TPS with it disconnected, but no continuity. Tested terminal 24, and it is not in use. The black / yellow goes directly to earth through a connector.
Monday 8-2-2021. Rang Yamaha service people, and finally booked it in to Springwood Yamaha for Monday 15th Feb.
Tuesday 9-2-2021. Continued checking continuity of wires. Could not get Injector 3 & 4 connectors apart, but 1 & 2 were good. Tested Lean Angle Yellow/Green to terminal 23, and it gives only a momentary connectivity.
Sunday 14-2-2021. Did corner weights on car. Original figures were LF 56 kg, RF 68 kg, LR 124 kg, RR 44 kg (obviously defective scale No 2). After Adjustment figures were :- Left Front 61 kg. Right Front 61 kg. Left Rear 115 kg. Right Rear (after swapping scales) 112 kg.
Monday 15-2-2021. Took car to Springwood Yamaha. They do not know what to do. They confirmed that the error codes being displayed are current, and what I was doing to remove old codes was correct. They said to try a replacement LAS from Allbikes in Moss Street. They had one already on a FJR1300 which was inaccessible.
Tuesday 16-2-2021. Tested continuity of more wires. Removed Starter solenoid and replaced it with spare. Still does not fire. Replaced the original.
Saturday 20-2-2021. Checked continuity of wires from F.I. Relay and coils and all seem to be OK.
Sunday 21-2-2021. HSCCQ Come and Try Motorkhana, timekeeper. Got info re ECU from competitors. Trevor recommended EMS Australia. Rob Bowers Autronic. Philip Haltech Sports. Brant Haltech or Megasquirt. MR2 driver Adaptronic Australia. Greg Alderding has a Haltech Elite 550 for sale.
Sunday 28-2-2021. To Greg Alderding’s place, picked up Haltech Elite 550 ECU, Haltech Elite 750 Harness, Broadband O2 sensor and cabling, fuse box and other parts.
Tuesday 2-3-2021. Contacted Justin Simpson re Haltech. Drained oil, took off trigger wheel, ground off 9th trigger, cleaned it up, and re-installed it. This is what it looked like with the 9th trigger still in place.
Wednesday 3-3-2021. Renewed oil with Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 to mark. Thursday 4-3-2021. Made aluminium support for fuse box, painted it.
Friday 5-3-2021. Contacted Horsepower Solutions – Justin Simpson – and he did not want to work on my car. He wants to do the whole lot himself, and is booked up till June. At my request he recommended Scotty Hoffman at Cleveland Exhaust, who I rang. He asked me to send him all the stuff to look at over the weekend, and he would contact me on Monday. I then contacted Fernando at Haltech for his advice on the wiring diagram.
Sunday 7-3-2021. Mounted fuse box in place, made lexan support panel, and put it in place. Mounted ECU to it, and started wiring loom from fuse box to ECU.
Monday 8-3-2021. Started cutting and splicing on sensor wires. Help from Fernando of Haltech. Shortened wire from fuel pump to selfie stick outlet.
Tuesday 9-3-2021. More info from Fernando on Haltech
Wednesday 10-3-2021. Started taking wires out of Yamaha loom.
Thursday 11-3-2021. Started integrating Haltech wires into existing sensors. Started wrapping cables from Fuse Box to ECU.
Tuesday 16-3-2021. Started pulling Yamaha wiring out of the car, and disconnecting wires. I had two to go when I found that the RED/BLUE wire that goes from the starter solenoid to Yamaha terminal Y27 had pulled out, and therefore there was no signals getting to the coils. THAT IS WHY THE ENGINE WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT START. BUGGER !!!!! I connected it back up, but cannot try it out because the +1 trigger has been ground off the crank trigger wheel. Finished spiral winding cable from fuse box the ECU, and labelled all the unused wires from the ECU so I can plan the run of these cables.
Wednesday 17-3-2021. Continued making spiral loom for Haltech. Repositioned WB1 connector.
Thursday 18-3-2021. Drew loom, and continued building it. Took headers off, and welded adaptor plug for wide band O2 sensor into it. Painted it. Threaded spiral loom through firewall chassis members.
Friday 19-3-2021. Fitted headers again with both O2 sensors. Connected wide band cable, but it is open to heat from the headers. Made a small alloy shield, and covered it in heat blanket. Was not happy with it, so made a much larger one, and insulated it. Fitted it, and it looks like it will do the trick.
Saturday 20-3-2021. Continued with wiring of harness. Connected lots of cables to sensors, then found that I had connected the air inlet pressure wire to the speed sensor. Fixed it by tracing the wires with multimeter.
Monday 22-3-2021. Wired up more cables, and extended spiral to top of engine.
Tuesday 23-3-2021. Connected more wires and made spiral wound cable bundles.
Wednesday 24-3-2021. Deleted Yamaha F.I. Relay from system. Finished spiral winding cables, and started checking wiring. Found throttle warm up cable would not work, and throttles are stiff. Replaced light return spring with a heavier one, but still the same.
Thursday 25-3-2021. Took air filters off to test the throttle cables, and it is stiff inside the shaft. Sprayed it with WD40, and made new aluminium block for end of spiral cable. Fitted it, and made a new aluminium mounting plate for the Yamaha fuse box. Cut old fishing line throttle warm up cable off, and fitted a new one. Started checking continuity of wiring.
Friday 26-3-2021. Sealed cables, and spiral would ancillaries. Checked continuity of all other wires except injectors 2, 3, 4 because I could not disconnect their plugs. Contacted 101 Motorsport, and booked it in for Friday 9th April, 8AM.
Sunday 28-3-2021. Sealed off excess cables from Haltech. Removed crappy wooden handles from Motorcycle lever and forward / reverse lever, and turned up a hardwood replacement, and a macadamia replacement on lathe.
Monday 29-3-2021. Cut off excess DPO & DPI wires from loom, and heat shrunk sealed them. Tried to thread M10 in silky oak, but the thread stripped. Reduced diameter of hardwood knob, and varnished both of them. Photographed loom from left and right.
Tuesday 30-3-2021. Tried to install macadamia knob on F/R lever, but the bolt has 1.5 pitch. Could not re-thread it, so rethreaded the knob. It fits. Tapped M12 thread in 1-5 gear lever, and fitted hardwood knob.
Thursday 1-4-2021. 8 + 1 crank trigger arrived in mail.
Thursday 8-4-2021. Prepare Geo for tuning. Swap left hand side tyres, charge battery, bleed clutch, pump up tyres.
Friday 9-4-2021. Off early to 101 Motorsport. Varun Sharma. No spark, no power to coils, told to buy replacement coils. Got them from Allbikes for $160, and fitted them. Diagnosed as needing an igniter, and found one in a box at 101. A bloke fitted it, but wired it up incorrectly, and the coils started to heat up as well as the igniter. Rewired them, and then the battery went flat. Got jumper battery fitted, and played with the settings, and found the timing was way wrong. Punch marked timing wheel etc and got timing light onto it. Then the timing light failed. Finally with lots of changed settings it popped once, then after a few more attempts, it finally fired at 3 PM. I was told that it would be tuned on Monday morning, and they would ring me either that afternoon or Tuesday morning to pick it up. Brought trailer home.
Saturday 10-4-2021. Downloaded wiring diagram for igniter, and tried to incorporate it into wiring diagram.
Tuesday afternoon 13-4-2021. I rang 101 Motorsport because they had not contacted me, and was told that Varun had not been in today – he was buying another house – and that it would be tuned tomorrow.
Wednesday afternoon 14-4-2021. I rang 101 Motorsport because they had not contacted me, and was told that it had not been tuned because Varun had been in and out of the place all day. It would be tuned on Thursday.
Friday 16-4-2021. I went to 101 Motorsport with the trailer to pick up the car whether it had been tuned or not. It was sitting on the wheel dyno, but nobody around it. I told cousin that I was here to pick up the car, and just give me the invoice for the time that had been put into the car, and I would pay it, and take the car away. He went and got Varun who came to me to say that he had been tuning the car, but now it would not start. There was not even any spark. It was not doing anything. I advised him that I would pay him for the time that had been put into the car, and take it away. He then said that they had spent enormous time on the car, and that it was a piece of shit. I told him that if I treated my clients like I had been treated they would all tell me to get knotted, and because I always work with the truth, and am completely trustworthy, and I do not rip them off, I have had some clients for more than 45 years. He then got very angry, and seemed ready to try to punch me in the face – and cousin and another employee came over and held him while gently edging him away. He then said that I should have rung him and he could have told me about the problems. I truthfully told him that I had rung, but he was never there, and that cousin could back me up on that fact. He then angrily told me that he would not work on the piece of shit again and I could take it away. When I went to help remove things that were in the way of getting the car off the dyno, he angrily told me to get out of the workshop. So I did so, and 10 minutes later the car was pushed out of the workshop where I loaded it onto my trailer. Cousin came out to me, and I asked him to give me the invoice which I would pay. He advised that there would be no invoice. I thanked him sincerely, and drove away.
When I got home I put the car on trestles, and found that the acrylic cover over the bolted power terminal had been broken off, and that a vacuum line had been fitted from the ECU to the line at the injection rail, and the igniter had been removed. We already knew that the engine would not start without the igniter.
Made Lexan cover for bolted terminal. Ordered Haltech HT-020002 dual channel igniter from Haltech. $189 + postage.
Saturday 17-4-2021. When I was looking for a place to mount the new igniter, I suddenly realised that when someone removed the one from 101, they put the wires back onto the coils in the incorrect order. Fixed it.
Sunday 18-4-2021. HSCCQ Motorkhana & Khanacross. Got name of tuning expert from Brant Rayment. Gary Stewart, 240 Learoyd Road, Acacia Ridge. 3273 3164.
Tuesday 20-4-2021. Rang Gary Stewart, booked car in for Tuesday 27-4-2021, 10AM.
Wednesday 21-4-2021. Igniter arrived at PO Box. Tabs under plate foul on heat sink. Drew it up, and emailed Fernando for confirmation of wiring diagram.
Thursday 22-4-2021. Ground tabs off underside of Igniter. Bolted Heat sink onto roll bar. Paste onto heat sink, and bolted together. Crimped wires into terminals, and connected it all up. Heat shrink cables, and photographed it. Drew it onto wiring diagram.
Saturday 24-4-2021. Installed firewall, belts, seat. Found throttle cable had been pulled through the mounting block. Took it apart and araldited ferrule back on. Found reverse switch was loose because nut had come off. Tried using a nut off another switch, but it kept stripping the thread.
Sunday 25-4-2021. To Supercheap, no stock of switches, went to Chermside. Fitted it. Replaced throttle cable into mounting, and adjusted it. Charged battery. Checked tightness of suspension bolts.
Monday 26-4-2021. Inflated tyres, prepared Geo.
Tuesday 27-4-2021. Took Geo to Gary Stewart, 240 Learoyd Road, Acacia Ridge. He plugged in the ECU to his computer, but there was a password on the 101 program meaning that he could not access the settings. We tried the obvious possibilities, but none worked. He then set it up using my USB stick, but needed the timing settings. We looked at the timing punch marks with a timing light, and all seemed OK. So we hit the starter, and it ran – idling around 1500rpm, then gradually coming back to around 1000 rpm. Gary asked for the fuel injectors volume etc, but I did not know that figure. He then ran the engine again, and advised me to come back on Thursday morning. He will try to get info out of Haltech regarding this motor in the meantime.
Thursday 29-4-2021. To Gary Stewart to tune Geo. He got a new map from Haltech, but it would not overwrite the 101 map because of the password. He played around, and tried to overwrite it with another map from a MX5, but that did not work. He contacted Haltech again, and they told him to do something else. He then overwrote the 101 map with the MX5 one, then overwrote it with the Geo map. We then had no signal from the O2 sensor and WB1. Took seats and firewall out, and O2 sensor out. It was not hot like it should be, so we checked the wiring. It seems that it needed a power wire coming in to it, so we cut into the red wire from the fuse box, and connected it to the grey/red wire to the WB1. Suddenly we had an O2 signal. Took the plugs out, and connected leads to some display plugs to check spark and timing. Played with the timing, and got it nearly right. Plugs back in, and igniter re-connected. Temperature sensor giving strange signals, so Gary decided to play with it in the afternoon, and for me to come back on Friday morning. Left around 12:15 pm.
Friday 30-4-2021. Woke at 5:30 AM realising that we had connected the red wire from the fusebox to the grey/red wire, and from that point on we had little battery power. So we must now have created a dead short somewhere. I rang Gary around 7:40 AM to advise him of that. Back at 9am, with 98 octane fuel in container. Filled tank, and Gary advised that he had the engine running earlier. He played with the settings, and started it, idling originally at 1800RPM which settled down to 1200. He tuned it down to idle at 1000, but it was not happy. So he set it back to 1200 RPM. He played with other settings, and tried to get it to rev. He reset the limiter to 3500, and it revved crisp and cleanly up to that. It idled for over 15 minutes while he played with the settings until I noticed smoke coming from the top of the engine. I turned it off, and found that the spiral plastic sheathing was melting down onto the exhaust. I cleaned it all up, and removed the rest of the spiral, and then made a bent wire clip to hold the cables up onto the alloy plate that mounts the O2 sensor plug. So then we sat it on the dyno, and strapped it down. We started it up again, and ran it at 1500RPM in 1st gear, but it ran roughly. We increased it to 2500 RPM, but it still ran roughly. We then went to second gear, but it was not running properly. We then realised that it was running out of fuel, so we turned it off, and it was boiling the coolant. We allowed it to cool, and I refuelled it. Then when we restarted it the battery seemed to be weak again, so the battery was put on charge, and I left around 11:45 AM.
Monday 3-5-2021. To Gary Stewart. He had been running the car, but then it refused to start. He said the Haltech was registering only 8 volts when the starter was operating, and that was not enough. He showed me that there was voltage drop along some of my cables, and I needed to re-wire it so that the Haltech was connected directly to the Main cutout switch, and not through other cables. He told me to shorten the earth cable to the chassis from the battery, and not use that connection for other earths. He recommended B7 spark plugs instead of B9. He said to run the alternator power feed straight to the battery. He said to delete the kill switch, and just use the ignition switch.
I loaded the car on the trailer, and brought it home. Drew modified wiring diagram (Haltech Mk 1B), and sent it to Gary on email.
Tuesday 4-4-2021. Made new short battery earth cable. Doubled up the existing battery supply cable, and connected it to isolator. Took red / green and red wires from Haltech Fuse Box, and prepared them for attachment to isolator. Rewound spiral on cable from fuse box to junction. Insulated cables with heat shrink. Removed kill switch.
Wednesday 5-5-2021. Welded new earthing terminal for battery, and connected battery earth to it. Took isolation switch out, and connected red/green and red wires to it; then reconnected other cables to the terminal. Insulated everything, and bolted it back in place. Connected pink wire to power strip on sidewall. Connected 10 amp fuse to power strip. Connected red/white wires from start relay to power strip, and tested their continuity. Rewound spiral cable back onto wires. Tested continuity of other wires. Replaced firewall and seat. Charged battery. Redrew wiring diagram.
Friday 7-5-2021. Looked at the coil of DPI and DPO wires that I had cut off from the Haltech 750 harness, and found that all three wires (red, grey/red and red) had been joined to all the grey/red DPI and DPO wires – and I had cut them off just 4 mm short – severing all of them. We had joined only one red and one grey/red; so I cut the joiner apart and replaced it with a new joiner for all three wires. Spiral wound the cables together, and zip tied them in place. Now the wiring is just as Haltech required it in the original loom. Redrew the wiring diagram.
Saturday 8-5-2021. Replaced valve in LR Wet tyre, and it seems to be holding pressure.
Wednesday 12-5-2021. To Gary Stewart. Engine started first go, but after 1 minute started to smoke heavily from head area. Turned it off, and tried to work out what was burning on the motor. Turned out to be water vapour coming from out of the exhaust area, and the tail pipe. Diagnosed a blown head gasket. Car was starting perfectly, but overheating quickly. Temperatures varied greatly over system. To Repco with Gary, and bought Chemiweld and coolant. Drained coolant from system, and replaced it with water, then added Chemiweld. Started it, but it wanted to boil again. Removed the thermostat, and tested it as being OK. Put water manifold back together without the thermostat in place, and ran the engine for 10 minutes or so. Coolant temps more even over whole system. Gary decided that it would not keep cool enough on the dyno with the current system, and decided to utilise his water jacket heat exchanger to keep it cool while on the dyno. Left around 2:10 pm.
Thursday 13-5-2021. Gary rang at teatime to say that Geo started perfectly today, and blew no water vapour out of the exhaust pipe. It ran for about 5 minutes perfectly. He organised that I go back on Saturday 1pm for final dyno tuning.
Saturday 15-5-2021. Back to Gary at 1 pm, he had run the car, but it was not cooling properly. He thought that the water pump impeller may have come loose, or there was some sort of blockage in the system. We took out the thermostat, and he tested it – and it worked perfectly. We reassembled the cooling without the thermostat in place, and when it was running I noticed that the bottom 80% of the radiator was cool, and the top 20% was hot – leaving me to believe that the bottom fins had been clogged up by the Chemiweld. He advised to take it apart and replace the radiator. I brought it home.
At the motorkhana on Sunday, Noel advised that the Chemiweld cannot be flushed out in reverse flow, and to buy a new radiator. I did that on line on Sunday night, from Melbourne, cost of $110, 1 week delivery.
Monday 17-5-2021. Took Geo on trailer out onto driveway, and removed the radiator. I flushed out all the coolant pipes, and all flowed perfectly. Just to test, I flushed out the radiator in reverse flow, and lots of Chemiweld flakes came out of the inflow pipe, and then it flowed perfectly with no back pressure. I tried it in forward direction with perfect results. Decided to replace the existing radiator while waiting for the new one, and so went to replace the thermostat. Checked the workshop manual to get the correct orientation of the thermostat (bleed hole at top), and found I do not have any gasket goo left. Measured size of Aluminium reflector heat shield needed. 400 x 500. Ordered it and gasket goo from Supercheap.
Tuesday 18-5-2021. Made aluminium disc for radiator overflow, and araldited it in place. Took off WB1 sensor mounting plate, and removed burned heat shield from it. Resprayed header where plastic melted to it. Fixed rubber bung in spark plug socket. Checked LR Tyre, and it is still holding pressure.
Wednesday 19-5-2021. Made bung for kill switch hole, painted it. Made mount for idle screw adjuster, and fitted it. Cut top out of old cyan spray can for oil catch tank, painted it.
Thursday 20-5-2021. Decided cyan can was too tall, so cut an enamel spray can, but it had too big an opening. So cut another with a smaller opening, and painted it. Made alloy mounting plate, and riveted it on.
Friday 21-5-2021. New radiator arrived. Made support for oil catch tank, and fitted it.
Saturday 22-5-2021. To Supercheap, pick up gasket goo and heat shield. Cut heat shield into 300 high and 200 high pieces. Bolted them to upper mount for WB1 plug, and to the firewall. Installed thermostat, and gasket goo’d it in place. Filled with 2.25 litres of water. Burped it, and there are no leaks. Started it on 4th rotation, and idled around 1500 rpm. Checked heating of coolant pipes, and all seemed to be good. Radiator was even in temperature from top to the second bottom fin, but cooler on the lowest fin. Maybe there is still a blockage in it. Ran it for about 4 minutes, revving it to around 3000 rpm. Replaced firewall and seats. The WB1 oxygen sensor was NOT connected.
REALLY HAPPY AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sunday 23-5-2021.
Monday 7-6-2021. To Gary Stewart, ran car with its own radiator on dyno until it started to overheat, connected his heat exchanger, and it then stayed at 80 degrees C all the time. Ran it on the dyno in 5th gear right up to 8000 rpm ( 192kph / 120mph), using nearly three tanks of fuel. Water radiator hoses came loose at drain, and the cover over the trigger wheel started leaking. Took it off, and gasket goo’d it, and all was OK. When running in 5th gear at 1500 rpm, (36kph / 23mph), the left rear wheel came off, and shattered the disc. Loaded it up and brought it home.
Monday 8-6-202. Took LR wheel off, took of brake callipers, took off brake disc. Re-tapped holes M12 x 1.5. Checked wheel for damage, and it has some slight gouges on inside of rim. It runs perfectly true, so has not been badly damaged. Reglued alloy spacers onto inside, this time with 5 minute araldite. Straightened RH pushrod, and repainted it.
Wednesday 9-6-2021. Picked up new Brake Rotors from Rocklea, and took them to Alltype while they were machined by Ken.
Thursday 10-6-2021. Fitted pushrod to RH rear suspension. Took brakes off LH rear, took off broken rotor. Fitted one new rotor, but the brackets for the foot brake calliper were bent, so when I put it back on, the rotor was jammed. Took bracket back off, straightened it, cut down one new M6 bolt, and bolted bracket back on. Fitted calliper, and the hub now turns. Found that the brake fitting on the foot brake calliper is leaking – probably damaged when the wheel came off. Refitted turning brake calliper. Started drawing fabricated steel brake rotor for future.
Friday 11-6-2021. Removed LR foot brake calliper, and tightened the brake fitting. It now does not leak. Reinstalled everything, with new purple wheel bolts on all wheels.
Sunday 13-6-2021. Prepare Geo, charge battery, tyres holding pressure.
Monday 14-6-2021. To Gary Stewart at 9 am. Started perfectly cold, idled at 1500 rpm gradually going down to 750 rpm. Tuned with his O2 sensor in 4th gear, running finally up to8,000 rpm (154kph ). 1.5 tanks of fuel. Approx. 8 full throttle runs, with his heat exchanger connected. He found out that the Elite 550 Haltech does not have data collecting available. He added his tuning map onto my Haltech Stick. Left there around 1pm, home via Centenary Bridge. Drained water out of cooling pipes, and then ran out of coolant to replace it.
Tuesday 15-6-2021. Took dampers off trailer, measured them, drew them & ordered new ones.
Wednesday 16-6-2021. Filled it with red coolant, no leaks. Bodywork on, engine cover on.
Sunday 20-6-2021. HSCCQ Khanacross / Motorkhana, Willowbank. Cool, dry, little wind. Fronts 11psi, rears 17 psi, 80 psi in reservoir. Engine started perfectly from cold with jumper battery, and warmed up OK. Did not pick up cleanly from idle. Ran in first test, but stopped because of rough surface. Engine gave plenty of power, but when snap off throttle, did not want to pick up on reapplication of throttle. Looked at plugs, and they were very black. Cleaned them with brake fluid spray, and reinstalled them. Ran it again with smoother area of bitumen, but it still would not pick up throttle properly. Could be a problem with over richness or TPS not set correctly. Broke winch cable when loading it up, so tried to drive it on. Just wheelspun on grass, so loaded it downhill on bitumen by driving it onto trailer.
Sunday 27-6-2021. Took broken winch rope off, replaced it with 3.3 metres of 3 mm dia galvanised wire rope.
Monday 5-7-2021. Installed new trailer dampers.
Friday 30-7-2021. Bought new 3 jaw 150 mm bearing puller from Supercheap. $25.99
Wednesday 25-8-2021. Fitted SS Wire trace to warm-up control. Started engine, and it works well.
Sunday 17-10-2021. Charged batteries, started engine first pop.
Sunday 21-11-2021. Started engine first pop.
